The Garden Club October 27, 2007

Fragrant Blooms on a Small Native Tree
Sweet Bay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) is native to moist areas along the U.S. Atlantic and Gulf Coasts. It has 2-3 inch lemon-fragrant, creamy white blooms in late spring (after the danger of late winter - early spring frost damage) with sporadic intermittent rebloom into autumn. This exceptionally long bloom period is followed by clusters of fleshy red-coated seeds that attract fruit-eating birds and other wildlife.

The 5" long by 2" wide leaves are shiny mid-green on top and silvery beneath, creating a bi-color effect that is especially handsome when the breeze rustle the foliage. The old bark is smooth and gray; the new stems remain green for over a year - truly a plant of four-season interest.

Virginia Sweet Bay Magnolia is evergreen in the south; semi-evergreen to deciduous in the North. The habit is multi-stemmed and upright, with a rounded top. In the North, it matures at a moderate rate into a small to medium size tree about 20 feet tall by 15 feet wide. In moist places in the South, growth will be faster and the ultimate size can be almost twice as large; although a few very old specimens in favorable conditions in the wild have matured to an even larger size.

As With So Many Natives, Sweet Bay is Not Appreciated and Underused in the Ornamental Landscape
Use this disease and pest resistant native to add vertically-defined architectural interest to the landscape. Use Magnolia virginiana as an upright multi-stemmed tree (or very large shrub) at the corner of the house, up against a large blank wall or for screening. I often use Virginia Sweet Bay to "suck up" water in an overly moist location. Enjoy it's long season of fragrance planted near a patio or in a doorway garden.

Planting and Care

Hardy in Zones 5-9
Plant in fall or spring in Zones 6-9. Plant in spring in Zone 5.
Quite deer resistant.
Requires acid soil. Prefers moist soil in full sun to light shade. Very forgiving; performs well in moderate to heavy SHADE and dry soil. Tolerant of salt sprays and brackish water. In Zones 5 and 6, avoid exceptionally windy sites.
Enrich soil with compost, Kelp Meal and Cotton Seed Meal (or Bio Tone Starter Plus) at planting.
Mulch with 2-3 inches of shredded hardwood mulch.
Provide ample water until established.
Fertilize every spring and fall with Cotton Seed Meal and Kelp Meal.
Requires no pruning to develop into a pleasing habit.

Handsome, 5 foot multi-stemmed plants: $58.85

Viburnum setigerum

Garden Club Questions and Answers

Question: The leaves of my Coreopsis Moonbeam and peonies are covered with mildew. It is the worst I have ever had. What should I spray with?

Answer: It is too late in the season for a foliar spray to be effective. I suggest you cut the foliage to the ground and dispose of it with the trash. Then spray the cut off stubs and surrounding soil with organic Lime Sulphur to kill the spores. Early next spring, apply a fresh layer of mulch over the surface and spray the emerging plants every three weeks with Messenger (an organic harpin protein plant stimulator) as a preventive. At the first sign of mildew, continue with the Messenger, but also spray with Infuse.

Question: I have heard you say on the radio the Butterfly Bushes get cut back in early spring. Is this true of all Butterfly Bushes, even the dwarf ones?

Answer: The only Butterfly Bush that does not get cut back severely in early spring is the relatively obscure, but highly desirable, late-spring blooming Fountain Buddleia (Buddleia alternifolia). This species gets pruned, usually by thinning, right after blooming. If your Butterfly Bush has any blooms after July, or if it is any color but light lavender, you surely have the common Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) which should be cut to about 1 foot of the ground in mid-March.

Question: We had to cut down two large trees a couple of years ago. I know my azaleas and andromedas have been left in too much sun. They were mature and beautiful. Now they are struggling, especially because they are being attacked by lace bugs. Even yesterday I saw a few lace bugs. Isn’t it late for lace bugs? What is the best way to get control of these critters? The spraying that I am doing obviously isn’t working. I don’t want to plant a whole new foundation planting. We have invested in two relatively large Zelkova shade trees, but it will be many years before we have shade like we had before.

Answer: It is not at all unusual to see lace bugs in the fall, especially as most areas have been unseasonably warm this year. I suggest an immediate spray with the Bonide Systemic Insect Control. The good news is that Imidacloprid is off patent and the price will be dropping significantly. Imidacloprid is a once-a-year soil drench that is very effective on Lace Bugs. It will eliminate the lace bug and your entire spray program. However you need to be careful with generic pesticides. The quality can vary greatly. Buy from a well-known supplier early next spring after the competitive pricing has worked its way through the market. Apply the imidacloprid next year also in very early spring as soon as it is available. (You may have to make one spring application of the Bonide Systemic Insect Control until the soil drench takes effect). Thereafter apply the imidacloprid every autumn.

Question: Through the years, I have always planted my bulbs with the point at the top. I just received some Anemone blanda and they have no point. How do I tell the top?

Answer: I, also, have never been able to tell the top from the bottom on Anemone blanda corms. I soak mine in water overnight (no longer) and plant them without trying to figure out where the top is. Almost all of them come up.