Question: Which is better for using with grass seed: topsoil or compost?

Answer: Both products do an adequate job of covering the seed so that it dries out more slowly and is protected from birds. Compost is richer; however it decomposes almost totally. Thus, compost is not good for changing grade or leveling the lawn (filling in depressions). Topsoil is better for these purposes. I usually use topsoil under the seed and cover with compost.

Question: In spite of the drought, my patio containers did beautifully. I want to plant the exact same plants in the same containers next year. Do I need to change the potting soil? By the way, I was really impressed with how well the plants I fertilized at planting with Espoma's Bio Tone Starter Plus took off and grew.

Answer: I usually do a complete soil change every other year. On alternate years I ‘'top off'' with a good quality soil, such as the Fafard professional potting mix, adding a little fertilizer than I did the previous year and mixing everything together thoroughly. The old potting soil need not be thrown out. It is perfectly satisfactory as a soil amendment in the garden. Like you, I have been really impressed with Espoma's Bio Tone Starter Plus.

Question: I never have any luck with Crown Imperial bulbs. Mine never come up. All of my other bulbs do fine. Is there some sort of secret to growing Crown Imperial?

Answer: Fritillaria imperialis bulbs require a perfectly drained, rich soil. There is a deep depression in the top of the bulb where last year's flower stem was. This depression often fills with water and the bulb rots. To avoid this situation, plant the Crown Imperial bulbs on their sides with the depression facing slightly downwards so that the water drains freely out of the depression. To further enhance drainage I suggest filling the bottom of the planting hole with a 1-2 inch layer of either coarse builders' sand or Espoma's Soil Protector.

Question: I read in the newspaper that a thick lawn will not have weeds. Is this really true?

Answer: Partially. Weed seeds have difficulty establishing in a dense, thick lawn. However, I have never known anyone to successfully crowd out established weeds by attempts to thicken the lawn. Once the weeds are gone, a thick lawn will be much less likely to become weed infested than a thin lawn. Certainly, a lawn with bare patches is an invitation to weed infestation.

Here in Zone 6, early October is too late to apply lawn weed killers and then wait the required interval before seeding. The weed killer will be effective, but the seed will not germinate well. If you are not going to be seeding, fall is an excellent time to apply cool season lawn weed control products, such as Speed Zone or Weed Beater Ultra. In the fall, perennial weeds are preparing for winter by translocating their "juices'', including the weed killer, from the leaves to the roots. In the spring, the opposite is true. For this reason, fall weed killer treatments are particularly effective on several difficult to control weeds with deep, running roots, such as Canada Thistle and Wild Chrysanthemum. I have found this to be true whether controlling these weeds in the garden with Remuda or in the lawn with lawn weed killer.