Question: My red daylilies have light colored speckles all over the flowers. I have lots of other daylilies and they don't have this problem. What do you think is happening?

Answer: Your red daylilies have thrips as probably do all of your daylilies, but the damage does not show up on light colored flowers. Thrips are worse in dry seasons and from mid-late spring until mid-summer. They multiply very rapidly; but each generation lives for only a couple of weeks. I suggest spraying with Bonide Systemic Insect Killer on a weekly basis until daylily bloom period has finished. Spray thoroughly covering all foliage, stem and bud surfaces.

Question: A couple of years ago I planted one red-leafed coral bells in each of my mixed patio containers of annuals. They have now survived several winters and have filled my containers. I have tried many times to get perennials to over winter in containers, without success. Is it unusual for these coral bells to live over the winter in containers or do I have something special?

These containers are really becoming full. When can these coral bells be divided?

Answer: There are many varieties of red leaf coral bells and every one that I have encountered has been truly winter hardy when planted in the ground. I have tried only a few in containers and, like yours, mine have survived several winters. As with many really winter hardy perennials, I would expect red leaf coral bells to come through most winters in large containers, given reasonable winter care and protection. In general, container culture of perennials is more difficult and less successful because the plants tend to dry out excessively and weaken due to periodic inattention. Also, container plants are more exposed to severe winter cold, drying winds and alternate freezing and thawing than those in the ground. For replanting in containers, I suggest dividing the coral bells only in early spring, just as the leaves emerge.

Question: For several years I have grown several different types of Knockout Roses and they have always bloomed incredibly well. This year there seems to be longer gaps between the blooms. I know that we have been in a mini drought, but I have a sprinkler system and have been watering like crazy. Is there something I can do to make all of my different Knockout Roses bloom the way they used to?

Answer: All of the Knockout Roses prefer to be dry---drier than other roses with less fibrous roots. I suspect you have over-watered. Over-watering is definitely a "NO-NO" for maximum bloom production and quickest repeat bloom of all of the different Knockout Roses. You need to adjust your sprinkler system so that the Knockouts get much less water. Once established for at least a year, except in periods of extreme drought, Knockouts require no supplemental watering.

Question: We have two butterfly bushes. They are lavender in color. Last year they bloomed very well. We cut them back this Spring and they grew new shoots. We noticed recently that the leaves were curling and somewhat yellow. Like they were burned. There are some small blossoms on them but nothing like last year. Could they be infected with some type of mites? The two plants are located some distance from each other. Will insecticide soap help? Thanks for your time. I have listened to your show for many years.

Answer: I also suspect mites. Insecticidal soap sprayed underneath (as well as on top of) the leaves should do the trick. Spray two or three times - two weeks apart starting immediately. Spray in the evening, just before the sun sets, on a relatively cool day. I suggest cutting back and destroying the top 25% of the new shoots before you start the spray program. At the same time try to wash away as many mites as possible by directing a strong jet stream of water to the undersides of the leaves. Once the leaves dry thoroughly, you can start the insecticidal soap spray program. I also suggest fertilizing with Bio-tone Starter granular fertilizer immediately.