Stokesia 'Honeysong Purple'

Introduced by Carroll Gardens!
Stokesia (Stokes' Aster) is a popular wild flower that is native to the North American east coast. Named after Dr. Jonathan Stokes, an early 19th century English writer and botanist, Stokesia is widely grown because of its beautiful flowers in early summer, handsome foliage, compact habit and ease of growth. Stokesias attract butterflies and are long-lasting cut flowers. Through the years many varieties have been introduced; but this week Carroll Gardens is featuring the Stokesia that we consider the most dramatic, our own 'Honeysong Purple'.

Stokesia 'Honeysong Purple' is the result of many years of work by distinguished plantsman and Hosta expert, Alex J. Summers (of Honeysong Farm in Bridgeville Delaware) and his son Alan L. Summers, president of Carroll Gardens. Over the years Alex and Alan collected as many different Stokes' Aster as they could find and planted them at Honeysong Farm, a bird and bee sanctuary. The “bees” went to work resulting in this outstanding new variety, aptly named after the farm.

'Honeysong Purple' - Uniquely Superior
'Honeysong Purple' is the darkest-toned of all the Stokesias - the same shade as Salvia May Night. The large four-inch blooms, with pronounced serrated edges, are a true royal purple with a hint of red that deepens as the flower ages. Contrasting white stamens and purple-tinged stems add to the appeal. This uniquely superior plant offers attractive habit and form, as well as being a fine addition to any cutting garden, butterfly garden or long-flowering summer garden. Expect your 'Honeysong Purple' to grow about 15-18 inches high with the green foliage forming neat mounds. Perfect for the border, especially when accompanied by white perennials, such as Baby’s Breath or Shasta Daisy Montrose Selection; or yellow ones such as Yarrow, daylilies Stella de Oro or Happy Returns or Coreopsis verticillata varieties.

Planting and Care
This hardy and reliable plant will be rewarding to even the most negligent gardener.

  • Easy to grow. Not troubled by insects or diseases.

  • For best results plant any time from early spring to early fall.

  • Prefers full sun, but will adapt to some shade.

  • Plant 15 to 18 inches apart.

  • Well-drained soil is a necessity.

  • Water regularly until established.

  • Fertilize with Flower-tone in early spring and late autumn.

  • Hardy in Zones 5-10.

  • From two quart pots.

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

$9.85 each or buy three or more for $8.85 each
 


Stokesia 'Honeysong Purple'

 


Reminders


** Now is the time to apply Sedge Hammer (previously known as Manage) to Nutsedge.

** Check your evergreens for young bag worms.

** In periods of drought, newly installed plants require about an inch of water per week. It is best to apply this water once or twice per week rather than a little bit every day.

** Mildew and spider mites are particularly bad this year. Start your treatments now before these pests get ahead of you.

** This is your last chance to apply Dylox Grub Killer to the lawn before the Japanese Beetle Grubs emerge as Japanese Beetles.


Garden Club Questions and Answers


Question: We have a beautiful dark red maple but these huge roots keep coming up to the surface. We would like to plant around the tree to cover them but we were told (by a neighbor) we could make matters worse if we put any soil over these roots - myth or fact?

Answer: You can add topsoil, but absolutely no more than one half inch in the autumn and one half inch in the spring. You cannot grow plants in such a thin layer of soil and the feeder tree roots will quickly grow into the new soil. Thus any topsoil that you add would be solely for cosmetic reasons. If the plants are going to cover the exposed roots, you may not need to add topsoil.

The key determinant as to whether you can plant is whether the tree roots are so thick the plants will not thrive. I doubt that planting will do enough root disturbance to harm the maple tree.


Question: Hello, I wanted you to know that I thoroughly enjoy your E-Mail Question and Answer news. Even though I have been gardening for many years, I still get stumped. Now I have a question from a group of us here in Brooklyn Park, MD, Zone 7. It's about the live white Easter lily plants that we get for gifts at Easter time. We all know that they will not survive our winters in Maryland but don't know what to do with them once they bloom out, the leaves yellow, and fall over. I took my lily bulbs, that were large and in wonderful condition with a lot of marble size bulbs on the stems, out of their pots, shook off the soil, cleaned up the roots, put them in a brown paper bag with some sphagnum moss, and now don't know what to do with the bulbs, as well as the little bulbs that were on the stems. What do I do now? I hate to discard them like most people do.

Answer: The old Easter Lily varieties were border-line hardy in your area. In a protected spot, they sometimes came through the winter. All Easter Lilies should have been planted outdoors (with all the foliage) as soon as the flowers faded and the soil warmed. They should have been planted with the root masses intact, but with their outer roots broken apart a little and without removing the small stem bulbs. Easter lilies usually rebloom in the same year (late summer or early autumn).

Often, in Zone 7, Easter Lilies (especially some of the newer hybrids) will come through the winter. These will bloom a third time in late spring/early summer next year and again in subsequent years.

Further drying will only harm your lily bulbs more, as did removing the tiny bulbs from the stems. So plant your lily bulbs (large and small) immediately. Choose a protected spot in full sun or light shade with rich, well-drained soil.


Question: Alan, when I bought my Knockout roses from you, you said not to expect fragrance. Now that my rose hedge is in full bloom, I find they perfume the entire garden. I just thought you would want to know.

Answer: I have noticed the same thing. Individual Knockout rose blossoms have very little fragrance; but the flowers are borne in such bounty that the cumulative impact from several Knockout rose bushes is indeed a garden-filling perfume.


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