Weigela 'My Monet' pp 16824

A Neat Little Bun with Colorful Variegated Foliage
Just when you thought you would never find a truly ideal shrub for that hard-to-fill spot, along comes the 2007 introduction, Weigela 'My Monet.' It grows only 18 inches tall and 24 inches wide, but the impact that you will see will totally make up for its size. The dramatic foliage is truly amazing. Tri-color foliage of green, cream and pink is heavily infused with pink on the new growth, becoming predominately cream edged on a green background as the growth matures - but very handsome all season long.

'My Monet' blooms in late spring with abundant rich pink funnel-shaped blooms that attract both hummingbirds and butterflies. Blossoms repeat in summer and fall.

Weigela 'My Monet' was discovered by master nurseryman Bert Verhoef of the Netherlands. It is a sport of the complex dwarf weigela hybrid 'Tango,' bred in Canada so you know it’s hardy. Several nurseries report that variegated weigela is their number one selling deciduous shrub. 'My Monet' sets a new standard in terms of foliage coloration and garden usefulness.

'My Monet' is extremely adaptable and easy to grow. This deciduous shrub can be used in foreground mass plantings or combined with perennials for much needed early spring color. 'My Monet' is perhaps most useful for dressing down front yard foundation plantings. It is great used for edging pathways. This weigela will also do well planted in a large container on a deck or patio.

Planting and Care

  • Hardy in Zones 5-8.

  • Choose a site with well-drained, compost-enriched soil in afternoon shade--more shade in the south; almost full sun in the north.

  • Fertilize in early spring with Plant-tone and Kelp Meal.

  • Pruning is rarely needed. If necessary trim immediately after the major spring bloom.

You will receive one plant for $28.85 from 2-gallon pots.

 


Weigela 'My Monet'


Garden Club Questions and Answers

 


Question: We are moving to the Eastern shore in mid May. I have an old fashion rose bush, hydrangea, & a couple perennials I plan to take with us. Is May a safe time to transplant? We do have the option to transplant now to my parents house. (With this choice I guess we would have to wait until next year to move them to our new house.)

Answer: The middle of May is not a good time to transplant established shrubs and perennials. I recommend digging them now and transplanting immediately into containers. These plants can then be removed from the containers and planted into the garden whenever you are ready, as long as you can keep them well-watered this summer.


Question: I have a holly bush that appears to be dying or at least it has a lot of brown curled up leaves. It has been healthy every other year and it is a good size (approx 3 ft x 2 ft). It has never suffered from this condition and nothing has really changed around the holly except a new fence was installed last summer. I don't believe the holly was damaged or even touched during the fence installation. Any thoughts on this problem are appreciated.

Answer:  Your holly has winter-damaged leaves. Possibly the new fence may have changed the wind pattern. However, we are seeing lots of winter-damaged leaves on holly (and evergreen Magnolia) this year - especially Burford (Chinese) holly. The coldest February in 20 years, following a very warm late December and early January, was the culprit. I expect the branches of your holly are fine and new leaves should sprout out all the way to the tips. If not, in late spring-early summer, cut off any non-sprouting branch tips. Fertilize now with Cotton Seed Meal, or Holly-tone, and Kelp Meal.


Question:  We live in Wisconsin. Last Fall, my husband mistakenly cutback all my beautiful pachysandra! It now is mainly stems. He cut it back and very few leaves are left. Will this "re-sprout" again this year or is it gone for good? Right now there are very few leaves left just the stems. Hopefully you can help!

Not sure if I should just dig these stems out and start from scratch?

Answer: Your pachysandra should come back. Certainly do not rip out the roots until you see what happens this summer. Possibly you will need no replacement at all, or just a partial fill in. I suggest fertilizing now with Cotton Seed Meal and Kelp Meal to encourage maximum re-growth.


Question: After the snow melted we discovered some animal has eaten away the tops of our grass in tunnels. He has left lines all over our lawn where the grass has been eaten down to the roots. We have had moles before but they always went underneath and their tunnels raised up the grass. All of this damage we have is on the top. Will this grass come back or do I need to re-seed? Do you know what kind of animal did this damage?

Answer: You had voles. They are most troublesome in lawns that are up against woodlands. Vole-damaged lawns almost always recover when treated with a good spring fertilizer, such as Turf Trust. There may be a few spots where the voles have eaten so deeply that re-seeding is necessary, but this is not normally the case. Within a month of fertilization, the vole tunnels are usually virtually unnoticeable.


Question: I have been told that I have raspberry cane borer. The tips of almost every shoot wilts and dies. What do you suggest I do?

Answer: I have had a lot of questions about raspberry cane borer this spring, so it must have been really bad last year. The standard recommendation is to spray in spring with a fruit tree spray containing malathion just before the raspberry blooms and then again in about two weeks. You can achieve partial control this summer without using pesticides, by cutting off all of the wilted canes about four inches below where the wilting starts.

If you have ever-bearing raspberries, such as Heritage, you can cut the entire patch to the ground, before the new growth begins, and destroy the canes. This should eliminate almost all of the cane borer. You will have no summer crop of raspberries; but you will have an outstanding fall crop.


Question: Is there any ornamental grass that is not invasive? I planted Miscanthus many years ago and it seeded all around even into our woodlands. I planted Northern Sea Oats and it seeded even worse. What do you suggest?

Answer: I have never known Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) to seed invasively - occasional seeding yes; but no out-of-control seeding. I have never known Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis) to seed at all. I believe it to be sterile.


 

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