Holly 'Red Beauty' (PPAF #14750)
A Compact, Disease Resistant Holly - 22 Years in
the Making! 'Red Beauty' has quickly become a standout among other hollies and we are sure that it will remain so for years to come. Unlike other reliable and hardy blue hollies that require much pruning to maintain a good shape; 'Red Beauty' maintains a natural dense, pyramid shape with little maintenance. Dr. Orton said of the 'Red Beauty' - "It clearly stood out in the trial fields. After 10 years of evaluation, the original plant was only 7 feet tall by 4 feet wide at the base. It had never been pruned. It was very dense and self-compacting with a tight pyramidal habit. It's a winner!" 'Red Beauty' has beautiful, glossy green evergreen foliage that will be covered in bright red berries in the autumn. The foliage has a finer texture than many other hollies available today. Simply put, 'Red Beauty' is the best holly we have seen in years - if you are in need of a privacy screen, a narrow hedge to define your yard or a background for your perennials - this is the perfect plant for you! Planting and Care 'Red Beauty' is slower growing and will mature at eight feet tall to four and a half feet wide. To ensure the best display of fruit possible, plant near a male holly such as 'Blue Prince.'
From 3 gallon pots for $38.85. |
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Garden Club Questions and Answers
Question: Hi Alan, Can I save tubers from a Wax begonia and replant them in the spring? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Also, I recently purchased the Sir Cedric Morris hardy geranium and was wondering should mulch be applied to protect them from the cold weather. Answer: Wax begonias do not make tubers; they grow from roots. Wax begonias can be saved by digging the plant and growing it over the winter in a pot in a partially sunny window. Tuberous on begonias can be saved by storing the tubers dry at about 50 degrees in a dark place. If the plants are now potted, you can store the begonia in its pot; just withhold water. Move the pot to a partially sunny, warm window in March. At this time, resume watering and fertilize with SeaMate every time you water. Every other year, the begonias should be re-potted just before they are moved to the window. If the tubers are now planted in the garden, they can be dug and stored, with whatever soil is clinging to the roots, in dry peat moss as above. You can plant them directly into the garden in May, but they will bloom very late. Better to start them indoors on the window sill in March and transfer them outside in May. All late-planted perennials should be pressed into the soil firmly and mulched with 2 inches of mulch. Question: I have a weed in my yard and I don't know what it is. Can you at a look at the attached picture and identify it for me? Thank you! Answer: Your weed appears to be chickweed. It dies in the summer heat and scatters its seeds. New plants germinate from these seeds in fall and grow all fall, during warm spells in winter and all spring. Chickweed can be prevented by killing the seeds as they germinate with Portrait or Dimension applied in mid September. You can kill the plants with Bonide's Chickweed Killer. Applied this late, the product will work very slowly. You can also try Speed Zone. Both of these products will work better once the soil warms in the spring. However, by then even more seeds will have dropped and you will also need one of the preventers I mentioned above. If any chickweeds sneak through the preventer next fall, spray them as soon as you see them - when the soil is still warm. Question: I live in southern Delaware and have two red maples planted on the west side of the house. The one towards the north end is doing great, it is about 4 feet tall and we keep it trimmed. But, there are problems with the one planted more towards the south end. The trees are 40 feet apart. In July the problem tree had it's leaves begin to turn up and become discolored from the end of the leaf in. Since then, some leaves began to fall off but the tree doesn't appear to be dead. The leaves stopped growing and the tree is now pretty bare while the other tree is quite full of leaves. I tried extra water and fertilizing with Holly-tone fertilizer as recommended by a local nursery to no avail. This is the second red maple in this same spot that I've had trouble with. I need some advice on what the problem might be and if it is correctable. Would you need to see the leaves? A nswer: I presume you have Japanese Red Maples. These trees prefer some protection from the afternoon sun. Does the one that is doing well have more shade than the one that is doing poorly? There really is no substitute solution for insufficient shade - unless you can create some shade. If the tree has been established only a year or so, you could try replanting with lots of compost and water retentive polymers. You could also try to thicken the cell walls by foliar feeding with SeaMate and spraying Messenger every three weeks. But, these are all "long-shots." If there is no improvement next year, I suggest you move this maple to a spot with some afternoon shade and select a more sun-tolerant replacement tree.Question: Alan, a number of years ago when we first put up our deck you recommended planting a screen of Hydrangea 'Annabelle' rather than a lattice to hide the naked underneath. This has worked out really well. In case you don't remember our deck is about 3 feet off the ground. We recently extended it and I would like to cover the underside with something that blooms in the summer and is fragrant. A pleasant fragrance is very important. Our yard is very shady and damp. What do you recommend? Answer: I presume you have extended the deck at the same height that the old one was, without a step-down or a step-up. The only plant that comes to mind which will meet your requirements is the new dwarf form of Summer Sweet - Clethra alnifolia 'Sixteen Candles.' This selection of our native clethra has fragrant white bloom spires in the middle of the summer. It loves a moist, shady spot. It also has a very upright growth habit so if you are trying to match the planting of a single row of hydrangea, I suggest a double staggered row of clethra. Like all clethra, 'Sixteen Candles' is slightly stoloniferous so your planting will eventually fill-in to form a solid mass. Question: I guess it is too late to plant Black Beauty grass seed, but our lawn really is thin and could have used an overseeding. If I fertilize this late, will it do any good at all? Answer: Throughout Zone 7 and north it really is too late to expect any decent germination and survivability from Black Beauty grass seed planted this late. Although many places have had a warm moist fall so far, it is unreasonable to expect this warmth to continue sufficiently to insure a good stand of grass from mid-November planted Black Beauty seed. It would be better to plant the Black Beauty in late winter or very early spring as soon as the ground is workable. However, fertilizing in late November with Turf Trust is an ideal way to make the grass thicken up when the new shoots emerge in the spring. You may see as much as a 2 for 1 increase in the number of shoots.
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