Toad Lily 'Sinonome'

A Shade-Loving, Unique Perennial
Toad lilies, the plants in the genus Tricyrtis, may not have the most pleasant name, but this group of plants from Asia, mainly Japan, is quickly becoming popular amongst shade gardeners - and for good reason. If you ask these gardeners who have one of these gems in their garden why they are called toad lilies, you are bound to get a different answer from each. But what they will agree upon is that they love the attention-getting character that toad lilies bring to their shade gardens - especially during the fall when toad lilies are one of the very few shade plants in bloom. This week we are featuring one of these curious, but uniquely beautiful toad lilies - 'Sinonome.'

After extensive trials of perennials at Chicago Botanical Gardens, the hybrid, 'Sinonome' was rated one of the top toad lilies. It has shiny, green leaves that cover all sides of the upright, arching two to three foot high stems. In late summer to early fall, the stems will be topped with the one inch blooms that toad lilies are known for. The lightly fragrant blooms, which will grow in clusters, are white with purple-ruby (raspberry-colored) specks.

Planting and Care
Toad lilies, and 'Sinonome' is no exception, love the shade! They are very low-maintenance and once established, are extremely hardy and drought tolerant. They slowly spread into large clumps which are easily divided in early spring. They will work well in the garden with other shade-loving perennials such as ferns, hostas and hellebores. 'Sinonome' will work in a variety of garden locations, but be sure you will be able to get up close in order to enjoy the curious beauty of the blooms.

  • For best results, plant in the fall or spring in a location with moist, rich soil.

  • Plant one to two feet apart.

  • Prefers a location with mostly shade and in warmer climates, deep shade.

  • Fertilize with Plant-Tone and Kelp Meal  in late fall and early spring.

  • Hardy in Zones 5-8.

$7.85 from 1 quart pots; save 10% when you buy 3 or more.


Toad Lily 'Sinonome'


Message From Alan


If you want blooms for Christmas, now is the time to bring in your poinsettia and start the ten week/fourteen hour nighttime darkness regimen. Keep the soil evenly moist and include SeaMate every time you water.

Check your lawn for beetle grubs. Several people who had lots of beetles are reporting no grubs. However, some folks who saw very few beetles this year are reporting lots of grubs. It's all very strange.

I notice that one of the large grass seed packagers actually recommends an understandable rate to apply tall turf type fescue seed. They recommend 12 seeds per square inch. At least, this formula is a good check.

 


Garden Club Questions and Answers
 


Question: How does one propagate a butterfly bush and a hydrangea? What season is this best done in? When can I trim both of them safely?

Answer: You can propagate both hydrangeas and butterfly bushes from cuttings taken in mid-summer and placed in a light professional soil mix. Although you are past the ideal time, I'll bet that cuttings taken now will still root and grow if kept indoors until late May.

Butterfly bushes are best pruned to within a foot of the ground in early spring and trimmed again lightly just as the initial bloom fades in early-mid summer. Continue trimming away spent blooms through the end of August.

Blue or pink blooming hydrangeas are best trimmed at the end of July, just as the blooms fade.


Question: Have you ever tried starting Liriope from seed? I would like to harvest some seed and try later this fall. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: Liriope can be grown from seed. Pick the black seed pods, let them dry and store in the refrigerator until late February. Then start the seeds indoors. Liriope spicata, the groundcover liriope with the narrow leaves and runners, comes true from seed. Clump forming Liriope muscari is often variable and inconsistent from seed; so the resultant seedlings aren't really satisfactory as an edging or for mass planting.


Question: Something is eating the bark on my lilacs and is actually killing whole branches. Do you have any idea who the culprit might be and what to do?

Answer: Large European Hornets are the culprits. They are particularly prolific this year and they are also eating rhododendron bark. These hornets are not very aggressive towards humans and are actually beneficial because they attack and kill leaf-eating caterpillars. It is hard to know what to do. There are reports that "Tanglefoot" acts as a deterrent but does not kill the hornets. The hornets usually attack the largest stems so it is not necessary to apply "Tanglefoot" to the smaller stems. These hornets are night fliers and they continue stripping bark into November to make their nests. They make new nests every year in tree cavities, or free hanging in a protected spot, such as a corner soffit. If you can find the nest and if you absolutely must spray, use Sevin. The hornets fly in straight lines and are relatively easy to follow into the nest, albeit at night.


Question:   The callicarpa that you sold me a few years ago is now loaded with berries. I was planning on cutting some. Do you recommend putting them in water or letting them dry?

Answer:  I have never tried callicarpa in water because I have always been concerned that the stem would not take up any water at this time of year and the water would putrefy. Because callicarpa berries are not well affixed to the stems, I have avoided a regular water-changing regimen. So I have always kept my cut callicarpa stems without water. In a few days the leaves turn dry and are easily removed and the beautiful berries last for a month or so indoors.


 

Garden Club Newsletter Index


© 2005, Carroll Gardens, Inc.