September 29, 2006

 

 

 
   - Azalea 'Lemon Lights'

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Azalea 'Lemon Lights'

Fragrant Deciduous Azalea that Blooms in Spring and Fall
Some azaleas and rhododendrons occasionally bloom twice - in the fall, as well as spring, depending upon the weather. For years, breeders have been trying to amplify this repeat bloom trait to achieve azaleas and rhododendrons that will bloom reliably every fall and spring. We have trialed several of these fall blooming azaleas and the results here in Zone 6 have been disappointing, although our trials continue and we have high hopes for one new variety which we are just starting to evaluate. However, we happened upon one deciduous azalea, with no reputation for reblooming, that blooms for us reliably every fall and spring year after year. This week we are featuring that azalea, the Northern Lights hybrid 'Lemon Lights.'

Beginning about 20 years ago, The University of Minnesota began developing a new super hardy series of deciduous azaleas called Northern Lights. Their goal was to allow gardeners in colder areas to enjoy azaleas in their gardens. This series is also known for being extremely floriferous, putting on a stunning floral show in late spring. Coincidentally, a few cultivars in the series turned out to be quite fragrant and foliar fungus resistant.

'Lemon Lights' has striking two-toned lemon yellow flowers which are lighter at the outer edges of the petals and deeper at the throats. The flowers emit a powerful sweet citrus fragrance. The dark, glossy foliage has excellent resistance to powdery mildew and provides a beautiful contrast to the clear yellow blooms. Fall foliage color is maroon bronze. Expect 'Lemon Lights' to reach 5-6 feet tall and 4 feet wide.

Planting and Care
Deciduous azaleas prefer more sun than evergreen azaleas, although they do best with some protection from the hottest afternoon sun. When planting 'Lemon Lights,' select a site with almost full sun to light shade that has well-drained, acidic soil. Azaleas have a very shallow, fibrous root system and can dry out rapidly. For that reason, be sure to water during dry periods and hot summer days. 

  • Does best in an area with well-drained soil in full sun to light shade.

  • Do not plant too deeply; place the top of the root mass level with the soil surface. Dig a shallow hole and backfill around the plant with equal parts mixture of organic compost and the existing soil.

  • Until established, do not allow the soil to dry out.

  • Fertilize with Espoma's Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal when planting and again every year in early spring and late fall.

  • Hardy in zones 4-7.

From 3 gallon pots for $38.85.


Azalea 'Lemon Lights'


Message From Alan


Salt Hay is now available in our Garden Center. Salt Hay is gathered from the Jersey marsh lands where it grows wild. Salt Hay is better than straw for covering grass seed because any seeds it contains will not germinate without salt water.


Garden Club Questions and Answers
 


Question: Alan, I have been following your advice on cutting back the foliage of my Stella de Oro's after they bloom in June and I am getting a lot more re-bloom just as you said I would. At our summer place we have a large bank of wild orange daylilies. If I cut them back will they also re-bloom?

Answer: Cutting back wild daylilies in June will not encourage re-bloom, but it will cause the emergence of new foliage that will present a much neater and fresher green appearance right up until a hard winter freeze.


Question: Sometimes your feature plant carries the words "with protection" next to the zones. Exactly what kind of protection do you recommend?

Answer: Plants requiring protection should be planted away from the strong winter winds and mulched with three inches of shredded wood mulch. Tender trees and shrubs also need a screen of double layered burlap around, but not over, the plant.


Question: Could you please recommend a shrub, preferably evergreen, for my front yard. Our home is in Ocean View, Delaware - just outside of Bethany Beach.

The front yard gets the hot sun from noon on. I have tried a Globe, blue spruce, but it did not make it. We are not there to water every few days either.

I would like it to be a focal point. I have Nandinas, and they survive quite well. I need another shrub to break it up a little.

Answer:  Variegated Osmanthus (heterophyllus Goshiki), commonly called Five color false holly, should do well in your site. It has speckled cream and green holly-like leaves. In autumn, tiny white flowers will perfume the whole yard with an incredible sweet fragrance. It can be kept trimmed to any size you desire.


Question:   I saw in your last newsletter that you recommend cosmos for covering the places that oriental poppies left when they went dormant. Can I mix the regular cosmos and the Cosmos sulphureus together?

Answer:  Cosmos sulphureus will bloom earlier than Cosmos bipinnatus although there will be a good deal of overlap. Personally I don't like orange and pink flowers together. You can buy Cosmos sulphureus as a solid yellow color. The yellow will blend well with the white or red Cosmos bipinnatus and possibly ok with the pink.


Question:  I won't get to fertilize my lawn until this weekend. I am planning on using your Turf Trust. Being as I am so late should I apply it at full strength or half strength? What about the late November feeding?

Answer:  Apply the Turf Trust at full strength now and again at half strength in November.


Question:  I have several lilac bushes that have, what I believe are cutter bees attacking them. The bees seem to be on the branches and many of the leaves are stripped off. Any suggestions what I might do to get rid of them? I tried several times to garden around the lilacs, but am afraid I will get stung if the bees are agitated. (Also, I cannot be positive that they are cutter bees). Any suggestions or solutions you might offer will be sincerely appreciated.

Answer:  I believe you do, indeed, have leaf cutter bees. I am surprised; leaf cutter bees rarely attack lilacs. They usually go after roses, where they nest primarily on dead stems. Because leaf cutter bees are good pollinators, we recommend no control beyond cutting out the dead stems in winter when the bees are "sleeping". I doubt that the leaf cutter bees have done any irrecoverable damage to your lilacs. If absolutely necessary, bees can be controlled with liquid Sevin.


 

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