August 24, 2006

 

 

 
   - Staghorn Sumac 'Tiger Eyes'

   - Fall Lawn Care Sale
   - Garden Club Questions and Answers
 

Staghorn Sumac 'Tiger Eyes' (PPAF)

A Staghorn Sumac Unlike Any Other
Rhus typhina, commonly known as Staghorn Sumac, is a native throughout the Eastern United States. It survives in the most inhospitable conditions and grows into large weed-inhibiting masses by suckering. In 2004, Bailey Nursery in Minnesota introduced a new Staghorn Sumac that is unlike any other - 'Tiger Eyes.' Unlike other Staghorn Sumacs, 'Tiger Eyes' is compact and slow spreading, making it a valuable addition to the garden.

'Tiger Eyes' is medium-sized shrub with lacy, fern-like foliage. The leaves start out as bright chartreuse green in color but soon change to a brilliant yellow. It is this gorgeous foliage that has caused overwhelming popularity around the world. The fuzzy light purple branches offer a beautiful contrast to the bright yellow leaves. The branches are angled upward while the leaves hang down resulting in an Oriental feel. The fall show of color is as spectacular as any deciduous shrub. Beginning in mid-October the foliage turns from yellow to a scarlet-orange and then to velvet red. 'Tiger Eyes' matures at an average height of six feet with an equal spread.

'Tiger Eyes' is refined enough to be used as an accent specimen. Combines beautifully in the garden with maroon-leaved Black Lace Elderberry and blu-flowering Nepeta (catmint). Once established, it is tough enough to survive incredible drought and neglect. It is hard to conceive of a shrub that will tolerate more abuse and still survive. Excellent used in masses on large, steep, dry banks where nothing else will survive.

Planting and Care
Unlike many plants with yellow foliage, 'Tiger Eyes' will thrive in full sun without any scorching. Once it is established it will tolerate poor soil, cold winters, and drought.

  • Plant in full sun to part shade.

  • Requires well-drained soil.

  • Fertilize with Plant-Tone.

  • Hardy in Zones 4-8.

From 2 gallon pots for $28.85.

 


Staghorn Sumac 'Tiger Eyes'


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


Question: Our lawn is so full of weeds and we have so little grass that I think it would be better to start over. I was thinking of renting a sod stripper and then adding topsoil and tilling. I don't see any need to kill the grass if I am going to be stripping the sod. Right?

Answer: Essentially your idea will work. Be sure to set the cutting knife on the sod stripper as deep as it will go. Even so some weeds may return from deep roots: wild Bermuda grass, nutsedge, and dandelions. The dandelions are easily controlled with lawn weed killer in the spring. The nutsedge can be controlled with Manage. However, if you have significant amounts of nutsedge or any Bermuda grass at all, I suggest you spot treat with Remuda two weeks before you strip the sod.

Consider adding compost rather than, or in addition to, topsoil.


Question: Last spring annual blue grass invaded our lawn. I was planning on applying Dimension as you advised in September. I have heard you mention recently Gallery for fall weed control. Which product do you recommend?

Answer:  Gallery, sold as Portrait, prevents broadleaf weeds from sprouting. It is not effective on annual blue grass (June grass). Instead, apply Dimension in September. Dimension will also give some control (not as good as Gallery) on chickweed and henbit. Remember, you cannot reseed this fall if you use either Gallery or Dimension.


Question:  I planted a hedge of Green Giant Arborvitaes several years ago and I had just made circles of mulch around each one. Cutting under them with a lawn mower has become a pain. Now that they are growing almost together I would like to connect them with one long bed. This looks like it is going to be a lot of work to remove the sod. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer:  First define the bed that you want by marking the edge with marking paint. If you get someone to help you, the other person can hold up any low lying branches so that they don't touch the ground. Then on a cool day you could spray all of the under - growing vegetation with Remuda. When you release the branches, don't worry if they touch the Remuda-sprayed vegetation. As long as they don't brush back and forth, they won't pick up enough Remuda to do harm to the Green Giants. You can use a rented bed edger to make a nice neat edge. Level the soil that the bed edger removes from its furrow by raking it level toward the arborvitaes. Then cover all of the sprayed vegetation with 2-3 inches of good quality mulch.


Question:  The leaves of my peonies are covered with a white substance that looks like dried milk. I have had my peonies for years, but I have never had this problem before. What should I spray with?

Answer: Your peonies have powdery mildew, a common fungus in the summer and fall; although this year it is worse on peonies than usual. Mildew is most frequently seen on French lilacs. It is not life threatening. Nothing can be done this year. Next year the foliage will come up normally in the spring and flowering should be normal also. Next year to prevent the powdery mildew, spray with Messenger every three weeks starting in the spring. In addition, spray with Infuse at the first sign of mildew, if any should occur next summer.


Question: Would you please tell me how to kill weeds in English Ivy ground cover?

Answer: There is no spray I know of to kill broadleaf weeds in English Ivy without harming the ivy. Grass weeds can be killed with a product called Selective Systemic Grass Killer with the active ingredient fluazifop. Broadleaf weeds will require hand removal or you can carefully apply Remuda with a paint brush, being careful to cover all leaf surfaces while getting none on the ivy.


Question: Last week I bought one of your 'Red Sprite' deciduous hollies and one of your 'Apollo' pollinators. How far should the 'Apollo' be planted from the 'Red Sprite?'

Answer: The closer the pollinator is planted to the 'Red Sprite,' the better the pollination will be. Unless there are a lot of obstructions, 'Apollo' can be planted as far as 100 feet from the 'Red Sprite.' As the only reason to grow an 'Apollo' is for pollination, I usually plant the male pollinator holly in the same hole as one of the females. For maximum show of berries, I place the female 'Red Sprite' in the front. Planted this way, 'Apollo' can be kept cut back to a few short stems and still provide sufficient pollen for prolific berry-set.


 

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