October 20, 2005

 

One of the Best Pink Climbing Roses.

  - William Baffin Climbing Rose
  - Christmas Shop Preview

  - Messages from Alan

  - Garden Q&A 


William Baffin Climbing Rose

Dramatically Change Your Garden with a Climbing Rose
There is no investment, for less money, that will so dramatically change the appearance of a garden or landscape than a properly placed climbing rose. You can probably recall any number of beautiful magazine images of sunny, rose-covered arbors or a rose-covered lattice framing at a home's front door. Climbing roses are extremely versatile garden performers. You can choose to let them artfully climb vertical structures, leisurely tumble over a picket fence or carefully train them on horizontal fence rails to create a narrow hedge. This week we are featuring a climbing rose that is not only a Carroll Gardens' best seller, but one of Alan's picks - William Baffin - the most reliable of all the medium to deep pink climbers.

William Baffin, a Canadian developed variety that is just about the best of the renowned Explorer series of roses, has been proven in thousands of gardens over many seasons for its colorful reblooming, low maintenance requirements, excellent disease resistance, unusual cold hardiness and salt tolerance. You will be rewarded with big color from clusters of up to 30, double, strawberry-pink 2 1/2 inch blooms that are moderately fragrant. Clusters of small orangeed hips follow in the autumn and remain into winter, until relished by the local bird population. Beautiful, glossy, green foliage that is totally resistant to diseases, acts as a backdrop for the blooms. William Baffin matures at 10-15 feet, making it ideal for a trellis or arbor. Although bred in Ontario Canada, William Baffin performs equally well as far south as Florida.

Planting and Care

  • For best results plant in the fall or spring. Fall planting works particularly well with William Baffin.

  • Plant in full sun for best blooms, but will tolerate partial shade.

  • Plant in well-drained, compost enriched soil.

  • Mulch well the first winter.

  • Pruning and shaping, when necessary, should be accomplished after the initial spring bloom.

  • Fertilize with Rose-Tone monthly from early spring until late summer.

  • Hardy in Zones 4-9.

  • We ship own-root, container-grown plants for additional hardiness.

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Order Now - 'William Baffin'
William Baffin Climbing Rose

 


Message from Alan:


1. If you had Japanese beetles in your yard this summer and you live in one of the areas along the east coast that was very droughty for a month or so followed by heavy rains about a week or 10 days ago, you need to check your lawn for Japanese beetle grubs. The drought seems to have delayed their growth; but now that it has rained, the grubs seem to be making up for lost time. Lawns that seemed to be grub-free only a few weeks ago are now infested with a prolific population. If left untreated, these lawns may be virtually destroyed by the beetle grubs in a matter of weeks. If you find grubs, apply Dylox now. In the fall, no other grub treatment works - only Dylox.

2. This fall, stock up for your spring fertilizing needs. Prices are expected to be at least 10% higher next year.


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


Comment from a customer: I didn't get around to planting my vegetable garden until the middle of July. I heard you say on the radio show over the 4th of July weekend that it was still okay to plant. I thought it was too late and I had missed my opportunity. Well, I have to tell you I have been getting loads of delicious zucchinis and tomatoes ever since the latter part of September. I am so glad I followed your advice, thank you.


Question: I subscribe to your e-mail newsletter and I recall reading about this question but I am unable to find the answer.

We live in a townhouse community. A lot of the yards are infested with grubs. I treat my yard with either Dylox or Merit, depending on the time of year. Is my treatment going for naught if I have an adjoining neighbor who doesn't treat his yard?

Answer:  The treatment you do to your lawn protects your lawn from the damage caused by Japanese beetle grubs (and other kinds of grubs). It doesn't protect your flowers from Japanese Beetles next year. If your neighbor doesn't treat his lawn, his grubs will mature into Japanese beetles, of which some will fly into your yard, eat your flowers and lay their eggs in your lawn. In the fall those eggs will hatch out into grubs which will eat the roots of your lawn unless you treat it.


Question: Please advise me how I should care for a Earl Cully Birch tree including fertilizing, pesticides needed, watering needs, etc.

Answer: The common name of your black birch is Heritage - just about the best birch for your location. Fertilize with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal in late autumn after the leaves have fallen completely and again in very early spring well before the new leaves emerge. To prevent insect damage, apply Merit systemic insecticide, as a preventive, late this fall also. Make a broad circle of mulch to retain soil moisture; birches resent dry soils and partially prematurely defoliate as a reaction to drought stress.


Question: At the head of our driveway we have planted shrubs several times and they keep getting ruined when the snow plow dumps snow on them. Do you know of any kind of bush that will survive this kind of abuse? The area is in full sun.

Answer: I can think of three options:

1. You can plant a shrub, such as winter blooming jasmine, which is so flexible that the stems can stand the weight of a mound of snow being dumped on them.

2. You can plant a shrub that can be cut back to near the ground every spring and still will grow and bloom the same year. However instead of cutting back in the spring as usually recommended, you could cut it to the ground in late fall. Some shrubs that fall into this category are: crape myrtle, hypericum, butterfly bushes, caryopteris, beauty berry and those hydrangeas that bloom on new wood such as Annabelle, Endless Summer and Forever and Ever.

3. The classic and tried and true solution to this problem is to plant peony "bushes." Of course peonies are perennials, with nothing alive above the soil line in winter, but in the spring, summer and fall they look like bushes. Several other perennials such as baptisia, thermopsis and New England asters fall into this category.


Question:  I understand you can use a systemic insecticide called Merit to control birch tree insects, azalea lace bug, scales and adelgids. My question is do you apply Merit in the fall or in the spring?

Answer: Merit is a systemic insect killer that works for 12 months, but takes 6-8 weeks to become fully effective. You can apply it in the fall and it will be effective until fall next year or you can apply it very early next spring with the emphasis on "very early." On birches I would tend toward the fall application and on azaleas I would tend toward the spring application.

 

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