The Garden Club September 29, 2005

September 29, 2005

Beautiful Fall Perennial with Zero Maintenance!

- Solidago (Goldenrod) - rugosa 'Fireworks'
- Hosta Sale
- Garden Q&A

Solidago (Goldenrod) - rugosa 'Fireworks'

Goldenrods - Ugh and Sneeze!
The northern Europeans appreciate many of our native wildflowers a lot more than we do. However, in spite of their best breeding efforts, many of the goldenrods are still nothing more than invasive weeds. There are a very few that really are top notch garden plants. Through the years, I have probably grown just about every goldenrod that has ever been hybridized. The absolute best is Solidago rugosa 'Fireworks' that was developed at the North Carolina Botanical Gardens. It blooms for about six weeks in late summer. It spreads very slowly; in four years the clump in my garden has expanded from 18" to 30" across at the base and I have never seen a seedling. It thrives on total neglect and blooms beautifully even after severe drought.

A Truly Zero Maintenance Perennial
'Fireworks' is the perfect name for this goldenrod - from August into October erect stems burst with small, brilliant yellow flowers, closely resembling a fireworks display. 'Fireworks' sturdy stems and compact growth habit make it look more like a shrub then a perennial. In the spring, small bronze-colored leaves will appear, turning to a dark green in the summer. Many people often incorrectly associate goldenrod with hay fever problems, as it can usually be found growing along side of the actual culprit, Ragweed.

Planting and Care
'Fireworks' is very durable and easy to grow. It is a slowly spreading clump former reaching 3-4 feet high. Hardy in zones 4-9, 'Fireworks' prefers a location with full sun, but some shade is tolerated. Your fall garden will be gorgeous with the addition of 'Fireworks', especially when planted with Sedum Autumn Joy, Ornamental Grasses, blue and purple perennial Asters, Colchicum or Beautyberry shrub. In fact, a spectacular fall combination would be a Panicum grass, Solidago 'Fireworks', Aster Purple Pixie and Colchicum the Giant - all interplanted and underplanted with daffodils and crocus tomasinianus for spring color.

For best results, plant in the fall or spring.

Water occasionally until established.

Prefers an area with full sun.

For mass display, plant 18" apart.

Fertilize lightly with Flower-Tone in early spring.

Hardy in zones 4-9.

Price: 3 for $19.85, Save 20% on 9 or more.

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Solidago rugosa 'Fireworks'

Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions

Question: Should an Easter lily re-bloom months later if it is transplanted from pot to the ground and cut even with the ground? I am asking because I planted some from our church in my garden two weeks after Easter, in April. The third week of August, 4 months later, they bloomed in my garden. I thought this was quite unusual, but I don't know, is it?

Answer: What your Easter lily did is absolutely normal for a bulb that was forced. Depending upon where you live, be aware that many Easter lilies are not winter hardy and may not return next year. It may help to protect it by covering with 2 inches of shredded hardwood mulch at the end of November.

Question: I am interested in transplanting my 'vivid rose' peony. There is too much shade where it is and is blooming- but barely. It was here when we moved in 17 years ago. We live in Baltimore where our soil is very heavy clay. I usually amend with leaf-gro, top soil and composted cow manure and depending on the plant, I also use Chesapeake Blue. Is that a good plan for peonies? Please guide me as to when to transplant, soil amendments and the type of Espoma fertilizer to use and when. Thank you for your assistance.

Answer: For your peony, if you amend the clay soil half and half with Chesapeake Blue Crab Compost and a couple of handfuls of Kelp Meal that should be sufficient. Peonies are heavy feeders. Fertilize on March 1st, May 1st, July 1st and September 1st with a handful of Bulb-Tone and a handful of Kelp Meal. Peonies are best transplanted in October. Peonies should be planted with the eyes exactly one and a half inches below the soil level. Press down the underneath soil firmly, so the peony doesn't "settle in" at a greater depth. Peonies that have more than 10 eyes can be divided so that each divided clump has 5-8 eyes. Since this is the peony's first winter after transplanting, mulch the peony roots, at the end of November with 2 inches of shredded hardwood mulch.

Question: We received an Alice Du Pont Mandevilla, as a gift this summer. We transplanted it into a larger pot and added a 5 1/2 foot trellis in the pot. It has grown beautifully! We were told that we should cut it down to about 1 or 2 feet tall (it is over 6 feet tall) and bring it in before the frost. Should we really cut it down - it is so beautiful? Also, what should we do to it before we bring it in as to not bring in bugs?

Answer: You need not cut down your Mandevilla if you have room for it in a warm, very sunny window indoors. Mandevilla can be kept actively growing over the winter, but it may drop some leaves and it will not bloom very much. Mandevilla is very subject to insects over the winter, especially white cottony mealy bugs in the leaf axils. Drench the leaves thoroughly with Permethrin or insecticidal soap before you bring it in and put insecticidal granules into the soil. Check the plant weekly for any sign of insects. At the first sign of mealy bugs, dip a Q-tip in a mixture of 50% rubbing alcohol and 50% water and touch the mealy bug with the Q-tip. Feed with SeaMate at the rate of 1 tablespoon to the gallon of water every time you water. Undoubtedly by spring you will have to trim the Mandevilla to the top of the trellis. The Mandevilla may not look the handsomest by spring; but once outside it will grow new leaves and flower buds and it will perform beautifully.

Question: This past spring I bought a Japanese dwarf lilac bush from you, it bloomed and has been doing great. However, I noticed that some of the leaves are curling and wasn't sure if this was normal or if the leaves stay on the bush during the winter. If this is not normal, what do I do; I certainly don't want to lose the bush. It gets sun and we have been watering.

Answer: I wouldn't worry about the lilac leaves this late in the fall. They are going to fall off soon anyway. I suspect your bush will be just fine next spring.

Question: I just cut down a bunch of trees in an area that I am clearing. You mentioned on your radio show that stumps can be killed by drilling holes and pouring in concentrated Remuda. About what size should the holes be, how deep should I go, how many holes do I need to make and how much Remuda should I pour in the holes?

Answer: The number of holes that you make is determined by the size of the stump. Remuda is most effective if applied to the outer edge of the stump. On small stumps (less than 6 inches in diameter) I use a 1/4" drill and go down as far as the drill bit permits. On larger stumps I use a 1/2" drill. I make a single circle of holes about an inch apart, as near to the edge as practical, and fill them to the top with Remuda.

Question: I overseeded my lawn and spread the grass seed by hand. It is coming up unevenly, probably because I did a poor job of spreading it. Should I add more seed and Leaf gro to the places where the grass is either not coming up or coming up thinly?

Answer: Even if you spread your grass seed perfectly evenly, the grass would germinate unevenly. Germination is influenced by moisture and warmth. It is not at all unusual for grass seed to germinate first in the tiny hollows where it is moister. Be aware that it is possible to put down too much seed and for the grass to germinate so thickly that whole patches will just die. Where the grass is coming up thinly, I suggest you wait; you can do more damage messing around with it than you will do good. If the grass is so thin as to be almost non-existent, or if there are patches that are truly bare, explore and see if there is still grass seed in the process of germinating. If there is, leave well enough alone. If there is none, you can overseed again and cover the seed lightly with more compost, being careful not to bury the seedlings that have already germinated.

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