August 4, 2005

 

Make a Bold Statement with Dinner-Plate Sized Blooms and Unique Foliage.

- Hibiscus 'Kopper King'
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Garden Q&A

 

Hibiscus 'Kopper King'

The Legacy of the Fleming Brothers
Jim, Robert and David Fleming, three brothers from Lincoln Nebraska, spent over 50 years creating unique hibiscus hybrids - celebrated for their stunning blooms, cold hardiness and compact growth habit. The Fleming brothers spent most of their lives on the long and painstaking process of crossing various native species of hibiscus to create their hybrids - leaving us with their hibiscus legacy. This week we are featuring what we consider to be the best of Flemings' hibiscus series - 'Kopper King.'

The Flemings were personal friends of ours and they hybridized many different plants, not just hibiscus. We truly miss those long winter phone conversations to Nebraska --- all three brothers on the phone at once discussing their latest new plants. The Flemings hybridized mostly for their own enjoyment; their plants were not widely distributed and almost all are now lost.

Create a Bold, Dramatic Display in Your Garden
'Kopper King' was named by Jim Fleming for its maple-cut copper-red leaves that are orange-red underneath. This unique foliage took over 20 years to develop! The foliage will add color and interest to your garden throughout the growing season. In mid to late summer the blooms will become the highlight of your garden. Dinner-plate sized, five-petaled flowers are light pink with red centers and red veins. The individual flowers last for only a short time, but a mature plant produces hundreds of blooms that contrast beautifully against the copper-toned foliage.

'Kopper King' has a compact, erect habit, reaching only four feet tall - far superior in habit to most other hibiscus. It is a vigorous grower, easily grown in average garden soil. It will tolerate some shade, but blooming and foliage coloration are best in an area with full sun and good air circulation. 'Kopper King' will attract hummingbirds, but not bees, so it is ideal around your swimming pool or your entertaining area. Good companion plants are ornamental grasses and daylilies. You will love this unique and bold hibiscus hybrid!

Planting and Care

  • For best results plant in mid-spring to late summer.

  • Plant in full sun (will tolerate light shade).

  • Tolerate of a broad range of soil moisture conditions from swampy to, once established, quite dry.

  • Use a handful of Flower-Tone fertilizer in early spring.

  • Deadhead flowers to encourage more blooms.

  • Cut back the hibiscus to the ground in the fall.

  • Hibiscus is a late sprouter; so be sure to mark the spot to prevent accidental digging. Or surround your 'Kopper King' with a clump of Daffodils to mark the spot.

  • Hardy in zones 4 to 9.

  • From 1 gallon pots. $12.85 each or save 20% on 3 or more.
     

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Order Now - 'Kopper King'
Hibiscus 'Kopper King'


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


Question: I cut down an old locust tree (stump still exists) Now, DOZENS of little locust sprouts are everywhere!!!! My asphalt driveway, which is about 5 feet from the stump has a new little bulge about a foot across, I am thinking a locust tree is trying to sprout through from below.

Any suggestions on how to stop these things from overtaking my yard? I have been pulling out some, and squirting weed killer on others. Their spread has slowed down, but new sprouts are still popping up.

Should I grind or dig out the stump? Any advice would be appreciated.

Answer: You are correct. Your locust is trying to re-sprout from below. Even if you grind out the stump, the sucker shoots will continue to emerge. I suggest drilling holes into the stump and filling them with concentrated Quick Kill. Also apply dilute Quick Kill or Tiger brand Brush Killer to the new sprouts. These weed killers will translocate to the roots and kill sections of roots. Eventually all of the roots will die and the sucker sprouts will cease.


Question:  Alan, My pachysandra is slowly turning yellow and dying. It's doing this in one patch and is surrounded by healthy green plants, but I'm afraid this bad patch is spreading. Do you think I have an insect/grub problem?

Answer: One possibility (probable) is heat and drought scorch, especially where the pachysandra competes with surface-rooted trees. Keep the pachysandra moister. Feed with SeaMate weekly, Cottonseed Meal (once in August and then again at the end of November) and spray the foliage with Messenger every three weeks. Another possibility (less probable) is a fungus. Do all of the above, plus spray with Daconil 2787 on weekly intervals until the end of September.


Question: I planted several hosta this spring. They are not dying, but they are not growing. They are the same as the day I planted them. I planted them in a shady SE location under a Japanese maple. Is there something I need to feed them to make them grow? Thank you.

Answer:  Your situation is not unusual especially with certain varieties of hosta. (There is a great deal of variation in the growth rate of hosta). Presuming you don't have too much root competition or too much shade for the variety of hosta you have chosen, I suspect your hosta is making roots this year and will come up in the spring as a larger plant. I suggest generous fertilizing with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal now and then again at the end of November. Three weekly applications of SeaMate (over the next 3 weeks) would also be helpful. If you happen to be spraying Messenger in your garden for other purposes, spray the hosta with Messenger also.


Question: I purchased Mach 2 from you to control my Japanese beetles. The bag says it covers 7,500 square feet, yet your store personnel told me it covers 5,000 square feet. Which is correct?

Answer: If you read the back of the bag carefully, for some insects like sod webworm, a bag of Mach 2 covers 7,500 square feet. For others, such as grubs, the required application is heavier and a bag covers 5,000 square feet. As you purchased the Mach 2 for Japanese beetle grubs, the contents should not be stretched beyond 5,000 square feet.


Question:  We have a row of tall Leyland cypress and they are loaded with bagworms. I can only, even with a ladder, pull off the bags halfway up the trees. I know I should have sprayed earlier, but I didn't and my trees are being devastated. With my sprayer, by standing on the roof of my shed, I can reach the top of the trees. Is there any point in spraying now or is there some other solution? I really don't want to lose my privacy.

Answer: You can achieve partial control of the bagworms if you spray with Acephate now. The key is drenching the bags so that they absorb the pesticide. Two to three sprays, spread over one day, will be better than one long drenching spray in which the bags absorb the pesticide rather than dripping most of it onto the ground. Drenching is an absolute necessity and requires more patience than most people have.


Question: I saw brown patches in my lawn and when I checked them out the grass had no roots. I explored with my trowel and I discovered lots of large grubs. They were about an inch long, much larger than Japanese beetle grubs. Are these grubs left over from some beetles last year or are these new grubs that had just grown from eggs that were deposited this year? Should I be concerned, if so what should I do?

Answer: You have the grub from the European chafer which lays its eggs about 3 weeks earlier than the Japanese beetles. Thus your grubs are already nearly full-sized now. In quantity, they can be just as damaging to your lawn as Japanese beetle grubs. It is too late to apply Mach 2 for European Chafer instead you need to apply Dylox now before the grubs do more damage.

 

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