July 28, 2005

 

A New Repeat-Blooming "Mop Head" with Great Potential!

- Hydrangea 'Forever & Ever'
- Garden Q&A

 

Hydrangea 'Forever & Ever'

Are you a Plant Pioneer?
We are pleased to announce a new "ever-blooming" hydrangea, not yet officially introduced - 'Forever & Ever.' Developed in Holland, 'Forever & Ever' is making its way into the US for the first time. We have not thoroughly tested it, but 'Forever & Ever' is so outstanding we just couldn't wait to share it with you. If you are a plant pioneer and want to try something that no one else has - this is it! If you already have Endless Summer and room in your garden for another hydrangea, this is the one to try; 'Forever & Ever' is sufficiently different from Endless Summer.

Forever & Ever -- New Repeat-Blooming "Mop Head" with Great Potential
Hydrangea 'Forever & Ever' appears to have all of the qualities of the Endless Summer Hydrangea that gardeners have fallen in love with. It blooms repeatedly on both old and new wood, ensuring that your hydrangea will be covered in beautiful blooms throughout the season - and it has proven reliably winter hardy to Zone 4 (minus 30 degrees); tested in Michigan. As with almost all other macrophylla hydrangeas, the color of the blooms is affected by the acidity of the soil. From what we have seen and heard, 'Forever & Ever' has many qualities that quite possibly may make it superior to Endless Summer (if that is possible!), including:

  • Larger blossom clusters.

  • Larger individual florets with frilled petal edges.

  • Often both blue and pink blooms appear on the same plant; sometimes even one flower can have both colors.

  • More compact growth habit by about a foot all the way around.

  • Waxy, leathery leaves.

Planting and Care

  • For best results plant in early spring to late summer.

  • Plant in well-drained soil, add aluminum sulphate for bluer blooms and lime for pinker blooms.

  • Will perform best in moist, but not wet, soil. Add Soil Moist if you think the soil is too dry.

  • Plant so the top of the root ball is a half inch below the surface of the soil.

  • Prefers an area with morning sun and afternoon shade.

  • For blue-toned blooms, use Leaf Gro compost at planting and fertilize with Holly-Tone.

  • For pink-toned blooms, use Chesapeake Blue Crab Compost at planting and fertilize with Bulb-Tone.

  • Use a handful of fertilizer at planting and again in late November and early March.

  • Hardy in zones 4 to 9.

  • From 1 gallon pots. 1 for $28.85 or save 20% on 3 or more!

  • Limited stock for immediate shipping.
     

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Order Now - 'Forever & Ever'
Hydrangea 'Forever & Ever'


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


Alan's Comments for the week:

In my experience, the end of July is the best time to apply lime to the lawn.

The Japanese beetles that are eating your plants will soon become grubs that will devour your lawn roots and kill large portions of your lawn. Apply Mach 2 now to best control these grubs (and also sod webworms). The absolute deadline for applying Mach 2 is August 15th. But immediate application is definitely preferable. If you have had a large Japanese beetle population in your yard this year and you do nothing, unless you are in the midst of a long summer drought, almost surely you will have to replace large portions of your lawn in late fall.


Question: I have planted several packs (seed) of Heavenly Blue morning glories. The flower is not blue, but instead, purple. This has happened for 3 years now. The first year was the only year I actually had blue flowers. I did plant moon vine in the same location (as combination planting) and have never gotten any flowers from that. Any idea why? Are glories like hydrangeas in that the color is determined by soil PH?

Answer: Unlike hydrangeas, the color of true heavenly blue morning glories is unaffected by soil. I believe you are buying mislabeled seeds -- a common problem. Immediately before planting, I suggest you buy seeds from several packagers, the most reliable you can find, and keep track of which packages contain correctly labeled seeds.

Moon flowers take a long time to get started and they can be difficult to germinate. I suggest you soak moon flower seeds in water overnight and start them indoors in mid-late March.


Question: Can you propagate suckers from a crape myrtle tree?

Answer: Yes, presuming the suckers come up with some root (often they do not), they should be removed from the mother plant and transplanted in the spring, just before the new leaves form. You will increase your chance of success if you just sever the lateral connecting root from the mother plant one spring and dig up the sucker and transplant it the following spring. In general, the larger the sucker the better the chance of obtaining some roots with the sucker.


Question: Hi - questions from a novice gardener...

1. Is there such a thing as a rose plant that will climb quickly on an arbor and also has no thorns? If not, what else would be a colorful climber, that won't scratch my little grandchildren as they go through the arbor?
2. I have purchased some miscanthus grass (malepartus & cabaret) from you. My neighbor insists that I must cut them down low in early spring. Is this true?
Thanks.

Answer:  I know of no good climbing rose that has absolutely no thorns. However, Zephirine Drouhin (an antique French bourbon rose) has very few thorns---almost none. Zephirine Drouhin flowers deep rose pink and is fragrant. It re-blooms in cycles in summer and fall; it grows both in full sun as well as shade. Zephirine Drouhin was introduced in 1868, but it is still one of Carroll Gardens' most popular climbers.

To look their best next year, Miscanthus grass must be cut to the ground sometime between late fall this year and early spring next year.


Question: Hello Alan, I have one concern, I have crabgrass and I am not sure how to get rid of it. I also have brown spots in my grass? What should I do?

Answer: First, be sure you have true crabgrass by sending us a sample, bringing some into our store, or bringing your sample into another reputable garden center. Lots of folks mistake other weed grasses for crabgrass and not all weed grasses are controlled the same way. Once you determine that you do indeed have crabgrass, you can spray with MSMA crabgrass killer immediately. Applied this late, MSMA probably will result in only a partial kill, but the remaining crab grass will be so set back that they make less seed. Several applications of MSMA will be needed.

In October, the frost will kill any remaining crabgrass, but new crabgrass will germinate from seeds next spring. You can prevent all of these seedlings from germinating by applying Dimension Crab Grass Preventer in the spring at the same time the yellow forsythia shrub finishes blooming. No matter what you do this summer and fall, if you are not going to have crabgrass next year, the Dimension treatment is absolutely necessary.

Without knowing more about your brown patches, I cannot be absolutely certain. I suspect you have brown patch fungus. I suggest fertilizing the whole lawn with Turf Trust now at half strength and spraying at least the brown areas with Messenger Harpin protein at the same time. Hopefully the brown areas will stop spreading and green-up without using powerful fungicides.


Question: I have a lovely double apricot hollyhock. It was absolutely beautiful a few weeks ago. Now all the flowers have died and the leaves are turning yellow. It has become rather unsightly and I was wondering can I cut it back to the ground now. Not sure how to care for them as this is only my second year having them in my garden.

How do they reproduce? From the flower heads or under the ground. Many thanks.

Answer: Hollyhocks are short lived and they often die after flowering. They propagate best by seeds. If you allow the pods to ripen (turn brown), the seeds can be planted outdoors in August. However there is no assurance that the seedlings will be exactly like the parent.

On the other hand, if you cut off the flower stem at ground level immediately, before the seeds ripen, you increase the chance of survival of the existing hollyhock. Cut off about half the leaves (the bottom leaves) and spray once with Orthonex for rust and mites. Be sure to spray the undersides of the leaves as well as the surfaces. Fertilize now with SeaMate.


Question: Large quantities of what appear to be white bugs are on the undersides of my holly leaves and all over my yews. The tops of the leaves are almost black and not the bright green they used to be. They look like mealy bugs that I sometimes get on my house plants, but I didn't know mealy bugs live outside. Are these bugs harmful and what should I do?

Answer: You have Cottony Camellia Scale, an insect that has been prolific this year. The sooty black top-surface of the leaves is caused by the scales above excreting sap upon the leaves below. Cottony Camellia Scale can be controlled organically with Horticultural Oil applied at the summer rate (the 2% rate) or even with insecticidal soap. However on a hot day (over 80 degrees maximum temperature) you may fry your evergreens as the temperature rises -- even if you spray early in the morning when it is cool. The danger is greater with horticultural oil; but I know of situations where soap was applied and the plant was fried and killed.

Your best bet is to apply Acephate (Orthene) insecticide once in mid-summer, paying particular attention to thoroughly spraying the undersides of the leaves, especially on the holly. Check the other plants in your garden, as Cottony Camellia Scale can attack a broad range of ornamentals. Also this winter, on a warm day when the temperature is not projected to drop below 40 degrees for 24 hours, I suggest a preventive spraying at the 2% rate (the summer rate) of horticultural oil.

 

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