The Garden Club July 7, 2005

July 7, 2005

Add Picturesque Color to Your Garden with this Low-Maintenance Crape Myrtle.

- Crape Myrtle 'Victor'
- 4th of July Savings!
- Garden Q&A

Crape Myrtles - Premier Blooming Trees
Crape Myrtles (Lagerstroemia) are known to be the longest blooming deciduous trees in existence, creating extended periods of striking summer color. This, combined with their alluring fall foliage and drought resistance, has made Crape Myrtles a favorite in both formal and informal landscapes throughout the south.

Crape Myrtles are native to Asia and were introduced to England and the U.S. during the 18th century. Since that time, extensive breeding of Crape Myrtles has resulted in a wide assortment of varieties from ground covers only two feet tall, to shrubs of all heights, to trees almost forty feet tall. Winter hardiness has also been improved, allowing gardeners farther north to enjoy Crape Myrtles' fabulous summer display. The dwarf varieties of Crape Myrtles are allowing gardeners with smaller yards to enjoy these beautiful plants. This week we are featuring one of these smaller and more versatile Crape Myrtles, 'Victor.' Of all the beautiful crape myrtles, Victor is our absolute favorite.

'Victor' - Picturesque Color and Low-Maintenance
The Crape Myrtle 'Victor' is best known for is deep, brick red blooms that last for almost three full months - an unusual shade for a Crape Myrtle; one that is so much easier to work with than the more common shades of watermelon pink. This stunning display of color is even more impressive when 'Victor' is planted in groups. 'Victor' will grow four to five feet tall with an upright growth habit, making it perfect as a low hedge or inter-planted with perennials. We often use 'Victor' surrounding patios, near swimming pools - any hot sunny place where long-blooming, sophisticated summer color is desired on a 4-5 foot shrub. 'Victor' is mildew resistant and hardier than most Crape Myrtles. It has proven to be reliably hardy, without protection, with no dieback, in windy sites in the coldest parts of zone 6. In the fall, the foliage will turn a brilliant yellow-orange, giving you an even longer show of beautiful color.

Not only does 'Victor' produce picturesque color, it does so with very little maintenance. 'Victor' does best when planted in an area with good air circulation, well-drained soil and in full sun. Once established, 'Victor' is drought resistant and does not require any maintenance beyond normal fertilizing and occasional watering. Pruning is not required, but can be used to create the desired shape and/or size of your 'Victor'.

Planting and Care

For best results plant in spring or early summer.
Prefers full sun in an area with good air circulation.
Plant 3 to 5 feet apart in well-drained soil.
Water regularly until established.
Hardy in zones 6-9 (protect the first winter in zone 6).
In the warmest parts of zone 5, dieback to the ground may occur. In that instance treat 'Victor' as a perennial. Cut it back to ground level. 'Victor' will regrow from the base and bloom the same year, although several weeks later than normal.
Fertilize with Plant-Tone and Kelp Meal in early spring.
From 3 gallon pots for $38.85 less 20%.

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Crape Myrtle - 'Victor'

Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions

Question: The temperatures in our area have been well over 80 degrees. Is it too hot to apply liquid lawn weed killers?

Answer: To be most effective lawn weed killers should be applied when the weeds are actively growing. With heat usually comes drought and the weeds become at least partially dormant. Under these conditions the weed killers are less than fully effective.

There are two types of weed killers: esters and amines. When applied on hot days, ester formulations can be very damaging to surrounding desirable plants because they vaporize and the vapors kill the plants. Never apply ester lawn weed killers when the temperatures are projected to go over 80 degrees within the following 72 hours. Amine formulations can be applied when the temperature is hot. However amine lawn weed killers control fewer varieties of weeds than esters. They work well on easy-to-control weeds like dandelions and plantains, but not on hard-to-control weeds like ground ivy and clover.

Never apply granular lawn weed killers or weed and feed products in the summer.

Question: I have seen beautiful larkspurs growing in various gardens. I never see transplants in my local garden center and when I plant the seeds nothing ever happens.

Answer: Larkspurs should be grown from seed sown in September to early October or in the very early spring as soon as the ground thaws. Sow the seeds directly where you want the larkspurs to grow. Once established, if you don't mulch, they will re-seed from year to year. I find the dwarf hyacinth flowered larkspurs neater in the garden than the taller varieties.

Question: I love bearded iris and we have a large bed of them. Is there any way I can get some summer color interspersed among the iris without damaging them?

Answer: Scatter California poppy seeds either in late fall or early spring amongst the irises. California poppies have a very small root system and a feathery leaf which will not crowd out the irises. They bloom in the summer after the irises are finished and they will re-seed and naturalize amongst the iris.

Question: We have a large sunny area in which I would like to have some perennials. I was thinking of planting a mixture of plants that will spread underground and mix together for a kind of disorganized, naturalistic wild look. I don't care if they crowd each other out as long as something survives and blooms. I was planning on mulching the area to keep the weeds down, so I don't see how I could use anything that spreads by seeds.

Answer: It seems as if you have found a good use for the perennials that some gardeners call "garden thugs" because of their aggressive "take-over" tendencies. Some that spread underground and which should naturalize in your site are:

Monarda, Campanula glomerata, Japanese Anemone, Lysimachia clethroides, Iris pseudacorus (moist soil), Physostegia, Phalaris grass, some varieties of Hypericum, a few Daylilies including the "wild" Hemerocallis fulva, Aster tartaricus, some Centaurea, Eupatorium coelestinum and some of the Achilles.

Question: I have planted blue fescue grass but after a few years the center rots out. Is there a blue colored grass that doesn't have this problem?

Answer: I suggest you consider Helictotrichon sempervirens, the blue oat grass. At 24 inches tall, this grass is taller than the blue fescue, but it is neatly erect and does not have the fungus problems associated with the blue fescue. Incidentally, if you divide your blue fescue every three years, and plant back only the vigorous outside portions, your fescue will not die out in the center.

Question: Is it too late to plant?

Answer: The relevant question is not "is it too late to plant"? The question to ask is "is it too late to dig plants out of the ground"? As long as you can water, it is fine to install balled plants that were dug in the spring or any plant growing in a container. I don't recommend digging and transplanting most established plants in the summer. Almost all established roses, shrubs and trees should be dug and transplanted in the fall after the leaves have dropped or in the spring before new leaves emerge. Evergreens can be transplanted in the summer once the new growth has hardened off and turned dark green. Early summer blooming perennials should be transplanted in the autumn. Fall blooming perennials should wait for next spring.\

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