The Garden Club May 20, 2005

May 20, 2005

Two Beautiful and Low-Maintenance Roses to Light Up Your Garden!

- Westerland & Autumn Sunset Climbing Roses
- Garden Q&A

Westerland and Autumn Sunset Climbing Roses

Two Gorgeous and Carefree Roses
About 15 years ago in the autumn, I was walking through the rose garden at one of the small east coast botanical gardens. One rose in particular caught my attention. It was a huge trellis that was covered with large, fragrant, tangerine colored blooms amidst plentiful lush dark green foliage with no evidence of black spot. Upon inquiry the rose turned out to be the Korders-bred German shrub rose, Westerland, grown as a climber. We convinced one of the major rose growers to add Westerland to their product line, followed soon thereafter by its peach-colored sport, discovered in Maine and named Autumn Sunset.

Blooms that Continue All Season Long
Westerland will produce clusters of large, salmon tangerine blooms, while Autumn Sunset's blooms are lighter, with shades of peach and dark yellow. Except for flower color, both roses are exactly the same. Both have blooms that are loosely double and emit a sweet, fruity fragrance. They have a profuse spring bloom and have a very short repeat cycle. They bloom on both old and new wood -- and they seem to be in bloom all summer, with a particularly strong autumn rebloom! Glossy, deep green foliage provides the perfect background. They are both hardy, vigorous growers to 12 feet and are very disease resistant, especially to black spot. Dollar for dollar no plant creates a larger display of color in a garden than a well-presented climbing rose. And when it comes to climbers, Westerland and Autumn Sunset are just about as good as it gets.

Planting and Care

For best results plant in spring.

Plant in well-drained soil in full sun to half shade, these roses are more shade tolerant than most roses.

Very little pruning should be required. Best time to prune: after the initial spring bloom.

After established, fertilize with Rose-Tone monthly until the end of August.

Hardy in zones 4 to 9.

Limited availability.

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Westerland

Autumn Sunset

Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions

Question: Looks like I have aphids on my bushes and want to know what to spray on it. Then what? Just wait and see?

Answer: Aphids are best treated with insecticidal soap. Check in a few days. If they are still present and moving, spray again.

Question: I have invested several hundred dollars worth in tulips and spring bulbs in two of my flower beds. Although they were beautiful this spring, they have lost their blooms and all that is left is the stalks. I understand that I am suppose to let them die back before I can cut them back. However, I have no idea of how long to wait to cut them back. Also, I think at some point I am suppose to dig up the bulbs, when? Thank you.

Answer: Cut back the tulips when the foliage turns brown, not before. You do not need to dig up the tulip bulbs, ever.

Question: I have a Norway Spruce that I planted two years ago. It is about 6-8 ft. tall. This spring it has lots of nice green new growth, but the inner, older branches are turning brown. Is this normal for Spruces to do as part of shedding their old needles, or do you think it has something else going on (disease, infestation, etc.)?

Answer: It is normal for evergreens to shed their oldest (inside) needles. The process is more noticeable in a recently transplanted tree that hasn't made a lot of new growth to cover the dropping needles.

Question: I planted an Eastern Redbud five years ago and it has been growing admirably and blooming more each year and is now about 15 feet tall. Last year, it was full of pink blossoms and this year there were none, just leaves. Is this a cyclical occurrence or has something happened to the tree? It appears quite healthy, the bark looks good, and the leaves are coming in as they have in the past.

Answer: It is not unusual for a tree to skip blooming for a year especially if it bloomed very heavily the previous year. I suspect your tree will bloom well again next year.

Question: I have two Dwarf Alberta Spruces and they are on opposite sides of our driveway. They have been doing beautifully for several years. I just noticed today that one has brown needles on the inside as well as 3-4 inches coming up the bottom of the tree (bush). What do I need to do so I don't loose it? Thank you.

Answer: I suspect spider mites. Thoroughly hose down both Alberta spruces entirely with the hose full pressure. In the evening, when the plant has completely dried, spray to the dripping stage with insecticidal soap. Repeat the entire process in 2 weeks and again at any indication of increased browning.

Question: I am having trouble with a Magnolia tree and I was told you know all. We just planted the tree last year and it seems to lose a lot of leaves and it looks sick. The leaves almost look as if they are burned; brown spots appear and some leaves look like parts just rot off. The tree is looking pretty sparse but it does have many buds on it. How do I save this tree?

Answer: I suspect you have the evergreen Magnolia Grandiflora -- the one with the large, shiny leathery leaves and the fragrant white flowers in summer. If so, it seems to be suffering from winter damage -- probably made worse because it was not established yet. Let the old leaves fall, or cut them off, and encourage the new growth by applying four products now: Super Bio, Cottonseed Meal, Kelp Meal and SeaMate. If you apply these products only once, I think you will be amazed at how good this Magnolia will look by early autumn.

Question: We have a new rose bed and this is our first year growing roses. When do we start spraying and what do we fertilize with?

Answer: I presume you are growing Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras and/or Floribundas. If planted from pots with full sized leaves, new roses can be fertilized with Rose-Tone when they are planted, or immediately afterwards. New roses that were planted bare root or from pots with small leaves are fertilized when the leaves have achieved full size. Thereafter fertilize your roses monthly with Rose-Tone. Complete your fertilization program by the end of August.

I usually recommend starting your spray program after the initial major rose bloom. However, if you see the beginnings of black spot, evidenced by the dropping of yellow leaves, start your program immediately. I recommend alternating 2 different sprays at least one of which should include an insecticide. I encourage you to try the new Infuse product, which is a systemic fungicide. It is longer lasting than any other fungicide I have tried. Most rosarians that I have talked to recommend it very highly.

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