The Garden Club May 6, 2005

May 6, 2005

A petite tree perfect for the smaller yard or garden.

- Cercis 'Appalachian Red'
- Garden Q&A

Brilliant Blooms in Shade or Sun
Cercis Trees, also known as Redbuds, are a family of beautiful ornamental trees that are prized for their picturesque shape, early blooms and ease of cultivation. American Redbuds (Cercis Canadensis) are one of the most dramatic of the shade tolerant flowering trees - great as an understory tree in a wooded site. This week we are featuring the most brilliantly flowered selection of the native American Redbud, the 'Appalachian Red.'

Brilliant Blooms
In the spring, 'Appalachian Red' has bright ruby-red buds that open into dark neon-pink pea-like flowers that seem to almost glow - the color perhaps best described as a hot fuchsia pink, much brighter and more intense than the common native form. The abundant blooms, create a brilliant display. The spring blossoms are followed by heart-shaped glossy, green leaves that cover the branches throughout the summer. In the fall, the foliage will turn a beautiful autumnal yellow. Once the leaves fall, the textured bark is revealed providing winter interest.

'Appalachian Red' is hardy over most of the country (zones 4-9) and is easy to care for. It does well in most any soil type, excluding sites that are wet. This tree is very drought tolerant. Plant in an area that receives full sun to light shade, as this will result in the best flower display; avoid areas of dense shade. 'Appalachian Red' is a small tree, rarely reaching over 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide, making it perfect for smaller yards and gardens.

Planting and Care

For best results plant in early spring to late summer.
Plant in well-drained soil in full sun to light shade.
Fertilize with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal in early spring and late fall.
Hardy in zones 4 to 9.
2-gallon size for $48.85

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Cercis 'Appalachian Red'

Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions

Question: I have wild violets in my herb garden and they are now infiltrating my flower beds and lawn. HELP! How do I get rid of them and not harm everything else? I have pulled as many as possible, but at this time of year, there are hundreds of babies and they are so small; it is an impossible task to get each one. Thank you for your advice.

Answer: In the lawn, violets can be controlled with the liquid weed killer, Turflon Ester. Used according to directions, it will not harm the lawn. Two applications, 5 weeks apart are usually needed. For maximum effectiveness, make the first application now, while the new growth is still tender.

In the flower beds, I suggest spot treatment with Remuda - a glysophate product that kills everything it touches. Be very careful not to get any on surrounding desirable vegetation. I find that application with a paintbrush gives the best control in closely planted areas.

Question: My roses are plagued with a tiny little lime-green colored bug. There are hundreds of them all lined up on the stems. What are these bugs? Are they harming my roses? How can I get rid of them without harming the bay? Thank you.

Answer: The tiny lime-green bugs that you have on your rose bushes are called Aphids. Yes, the will harm the roses if not treated now. I suggest spraying the roses with insecticidal soap.

Question: Our weather has been unseasonably cold. I planted my annuals too early and many were damaged by frost. The leaves on my Japanese maple are drooping and my peonies foliage is lying on the ground. What is the best way to save these plants?

Answer: In a day or so it will be obvious how much of each bedding plant is still alive. Cut them back to what obviously is still alive. A foliar and soil feed with a liquid plant food such as SeaMate would be helpful. In a few weeks, most of these plants will revive and almost catch up to where they would have been. Plants that like it really warm, such as New Guinea impatiens and caladiums, should be dug up and rejuvenated indoors.

The red-leaved Japanese maple will probably sprout new leaves, also some of the leaves that are wilting so badly may revive. A foliar feeding on the maple with SeaMate may help.

Peonies which have leafed out and then become frozen recover very slowly if at all. You can try the SeaMate foliar feed but I am doubtful it will do much. There may be some dormant buds, still below ground, which will emerge later. Do not cut back any of the frost damaged foliage in the hopes that it can sustain the plant until new leaf buds can be formed below ground which may emerge as late as next spring. At best, peonies which are severely damaged by late frost often take years to recover. Unfortunately many of them never recover and perish.

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