Sapphireberry
Sapphireberry

April 15, 2005

Sapphireberry

Beautiful Shrub with Bright Blue Berries that

  - Sapphireberry - 2 for $38.85!
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Garden Q&A

Everyone Will Love, Especially the Birds!

 

Sapphireberry (Symplocos paniculata)

Small trees and large shrubs add many things to your landscape - color, texture, screening and shade while acting as a focal point, an anchor or a backdrop for other flowers and shrubs. This week we are featuring a unique plant that will also provide multi-season beauty to your landscape - the Sapphireberry.

Large Shrub with Bright Blue Berries that Attract Birds
The Sapphireberry, also known as Asiatic Sweetleaf, is a large deciduous shrub that can be trained as a small tree. It is named for its unusual turquoise blue fruits that cover it in early fall - making a beautiful and striking display that will not only be enjoyed by you, but by any birds that pass by. A profusion of creamy white flowers will bloom in May and June with a delightful, light fragrance. Sapphireberry is a plant of great winter beauty, with a ridged twiggy silhouette and warm brown furrowed bark.

Sapphireberry is a moderately slower grower; eventually it will reach 15-20 feet tall with a spread of 10-20 feet. Plant in an area with sun to light shade and a well-drained, acid soil. For best pollination, plant at least two specimens close to one another. The Sapphireberry is long-lived and requires virtually no maintenance - making it a true investment in your landscape. Native to China and Japan, Sapphireberry is extremely difficult to locate and sells out whenever we have them in stock.

We quote from Michael Dirr - the US preeminent expert on woody plants: "Certainly one of the handsomest of fruiting shrubs and should be used in every park, bird sanctuary... A plant in full fruit is truly spectacular."

Planting and Care

  • For best results, plant in early spring.

  • Prefers full sun in the north to light shade in the south.

  • Plant in almost any well-drained, acid soil.

  • Fertilize with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal in early spring and late autumn.

  • Hardy in zones 4-8.

  • 18-24" multi-stemmed plants, 2 plants for $38.85 (each from a different clone to assure good cross pollination).

Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Order Now - 'Sapphireberry'
Sapphireberry


Spring Lawn Care Program From Carroll Gardens

 

Click here for the Carroll Gardens Lawn Care and Renovation guides to learn how to make your lawn beautiful with some simple maintenance.


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


 

Question: Can I still my move my Roses now or is it too late?

Answer: Roses can be transplanted until the leaves are one half of mature size. For most Roses once the leaves are more fully developed, it is wise to wait until mid-late autumn.

If you must move a Rose in full leaf, cut it back to 18 inches and use Myke Beneficial Mycorise for Trees and Shrubs on the roots. Mix the soil with Chesapeake Blue Crab Compost. Water the rose with SeaMate and SuperBio and spray the remaining leaves also. Until new leaves form and grow to full size, keep the plant shaded with a moist tent of burlap laid over the plant. (You can keep the burlap moist by letting one end hang in a bucket of water so the burlap will wick up the water). Also keep the soil moist until the new leaves are full sized.

If you dig the roots up carefully and follow these procedures, you will have at least a 90% chance of success when moving a rose out of season.


Question:  Everywhere I dig in my yard I am finding all sorts of grubs. Will they turn into Japanese beetles? How do I get rid of them? I am really surprised to see so many grubs as I used Milky Spore a few years ago.

Answer: Milky Spore only kills Japanese beetle grubs. More and more of the grubs I am seeing are not Japanese beetle grubs. In many yards there seem to be an assortment of other grubs which I am not used to seeing. Either the Milky Spore didn't work or you have grubs from beetles that are not Japanese beetles. In any event once the grubs are near the surface, apply Dylox immediately and water it in thoroughly. Within a day or so, you should have no living grubs in your soil.


Question:  Wild garlic or onions or whatever you call them are all over my lawn. I used Weed and Feed for the last several years and I get more onions rather than less. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: Wild garlic and star of Bethlehem can both be exterminated by the following procedure. They both have a waxy coating on the leaf which must be broken before the lawn weed killer is effective. They cannot be controlled with a granular weed killer. Use liquid Trimec to which you have added a Spreader Sticker. Drench the foliage thoroughly and skip cutting the lawn for a week so that you don't cut off the foliage that is absorbing the weed killer. That is if you cut your grass on Saturday, apply the weed killer the following Tuesday or there abouts and then don't cut the grass for 10 days. As many as four applications, five weeks apart, over two springs may be needed.

Very Important: Before applying the weed killer, try to physically damage the waxy coating on the outside of the leaves. You can do this by rolling the lawn with a lawn roller or by dragging the sole of your shoe across the star of Bethlehem and garlic leaves.


Question:  I have planted a Forsythia hedge little by little as I had the money. I finished a couple of years ago and I am really quite unhappy with the results. Some of the Forsythia have big blooms, some have small, some are light yellow, some are dark, some are upright, some hang over. Is there anything I can do? I thought all Forsythia were the same?

Answer: Not really. You planted a mixture of several varieties of Forsythia each of which has their own growing habits. There a literally dozens of varieties and for a hedge you needed to have chosen all the same.

 

 

 


 

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