Antique Roses with Celebrated Charm
Recurrent Blooms even in Shady Sites 'Zephirine Drouhin' is ideal as a climber, but it can be pruned as a shrub rose. Expect 'Zephirine Drouhin' to reach up to 12 feet tall, but it can be pruned to fit any area that you desire. 'Zephirine Drouhin' is virtually thornless - making it especially easy to manage, as well as kid and neighbor friendly for walkways, near your home or on a fence as a divider between yards. It prefers partial shade and will tolerate poor soil much better than most roses. It can even be trellised on the north side of a building, sent climbing trees or scrambling over woodland shrubs. 'Zephirine Drouhin's' beauty and versatility will turn you into one of the many Bourbon rose lovers!
Planting and Care
Grows in full sun; prefers partial shade. Will tolerate dappled shade all day long or dense shade with just a couple of hours of sun. Tolerates poor soil conditions as long as drainage is good. Water regularly until established. Fertilize monthly from early spring through late summer with Rose-Tone. Hardy in zones 5-9. Shipped bareroot. Our Garden Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed. |
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Garden Club Frequently Asked
Questions Question: We have had a lot of rain recently and part of our yard is really wet. We are near the bottom of a hill and the water drains through our yard from several of the neighbors. In the summer, except when we have heavy rains, the yard dries out pretty well. But there are periods when things are pretty soggy especially in the spring. Are there any plants that will grow in these conditions? I really need something whose roots will hold the soil because all of my top soil is eroding away. The area is large and I am interested in trees, shrubs and perennials. Answer: From your question I infer that the water runs through, but does not lay there in deep puddles. You have quite a few choices, perhaps more than you expected. For trees consider: Sweetgum (Liquidambar), Sweet Bay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana), American Holly (Ilex opaca), Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum), various willows, Heritage Birch (Betula nigra), Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica), Larch (Larix decidua), Serviceberry (Amelanchier species) and large leaved red maple not the Japanese red maple (Acer rubrum varieties). If you choose the Sweet Gum, there is a variety that does not have the gumballs (Liquidambar s. rotundiloba) which many people find objectionable.Amongst the shrubs, consider: Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia), red twig Dogwood (Cornus sericea), Fothergilla, Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata), Inkberry Holly (Ilex glabra), Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica), Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), some of the deciduous Azaleas, Highbush Blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia Regent) and most of the Hydrangeas (especially H. arborescens Annabelle).Some perennials to consider are: Japanese Anemone, Snowdrop Anemone (Anemone sylvestris), Astilbes, Turtleheads (Chelone glabra or obliqua), Joe Pye Weed (Eupatorium f. gateway), Hibiscus, Daylilies (Hemerocallis), Hostas, most Ferns, Siberian Iris, red and blue Cardinal Flower (Lobelia), Japanese Loosestrife (Lysimachia clethroides) and Obedient Plant (Physostegia virginiana).I am sure there are several more in each category that I could have included, but this is a list to at least get you started. In the perennials I purposely excluded those that aren't deeply enough rooted to hold the soil in the conditions you have described. Question: Voles have absolutely invaded my yard. I think they come from the woods behind me. I used the Ramik and it kills them, but then more come back. Before I discover them they have usually wiped out a few more of my Hostas. Is there any permanent solution? Answer: Without exterminating all of the voles in the woods, there is no permanent solution. However, Espoma (the makers of Holly Tone) have released a brand new product called Soil Perfector. It is made of expanded slate stone. Soil Perfector is designed to permanently lighten heavy clay soils; for example, where you want to plant Rhododendrons and Azaleas in heavy soil. Previously in these situations the traditional amendments have been compost and peat moss to lighten heavy soil. In time these decompose and eventually the plant is surrounded by heavy soil just as if the soil had never been amended. When planting Hostas, if you line the bottom and sides of the hole with a 3 inch layer of this stone product, the voles should leave your hostas alone---either from frustration or the inability to chew because of broken teeth. I also suggest a 2 inch mulch of Soil Perfector covering the root mass. Question: Weeds have just about taken over my lawn. I have used a weed and feed product in the past with only partial success. I noticed that you recommended a liquid weed killer separate from the lawn fertilizer. I am relatively new at gardening and have never used such a product. Are there any hints that you can give me to insure success? Answer: Below are some thoughts: - Lawn weed killers kill through the foliage, so it is not necessary to drench the soil. Just thoroughly wet the leaves. - Lawn weed killers work best in the spring and fall when the weeds are actively growing. Thus in the spring they are applied a few weeks after fertilization. Lawn weed killers don't work well during a hot dry summer when the weeds are somewhat dormant. - Apply lawn weed killers 3 days after the lawn has been cut and then skip a cutting so if you are on a weekly schedule the next cutting will be 11 days after the spray. - Lawn weed killers should never be applied when there is rain forecasted for the next 24 hours. - Lawn weed killers should be applied in the morning (when the wind is usually calmer) right after the dew has evaporated. Never apply lawn weed killers on a windy day or when the temperature is above 80 degrees. These two caveats are particularly important when applying lawn weed killers with ester in the name of the formulation. Esters are particularly prone to drifting and damaging surrounding ornamentals. - Lawn weed killers usually work best if a spreader sticker is added. - Use a pump sprayer, rather than a hose end sprayer. You will have better control and use much less lawn weed killer. Spray only where you see weeds. To avoid drift onto desirable ornamentals, use a coarse mist and hold the spray wand close to the ground. - Clean out the sprayer with sudsy ammonia as soon as you have finished. Some lawn weed killers cause rubber sprayer parts to swell and decompose quickly. - Two sprays are almost always needed. They should be spaced 5 weeks apart. This year there is a new lawn weed killer called "Speed Zone". It seems to be particularly forgiving and kills a broad range of weeds a little earlier in the spring than traditional weed killers.
Question: I have always had a mole problem in the sunny parts of my lawn. I treated it with Dylox last fall and the grubs are gone and I haven't seen any mole tunnels in the sunny lawn at all. However, I am now seeing some mole activity in the shadier parts of my lawn. Is it possible I have beetle grubs in the shade or are the moles just searching in the shady lawn for something to eat? Answer: Beetle grubs are usually only problematic in sunny lawns, but I have seen moderate grub infestation in heavily shaded lawns in years (like 2004-2005) when the grub infestation was particularly heavy. I suggest you dig around over the next week or so and see if you find grubs. If you do, treat with Dylox. Then, you can drive the moles out by spraying with liquid Scoot Mole or by spreading granular Mole Max.
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