March 18, 2005

Welcome spring
with our new 

  - Helleborus Orientalis Hybrids
  -
Garden Q&A

Helleborus Orientalis Hybrid Collection.

 

Helleborus Orientalis Hybrids (Lenten Roses)

Lenten Rose - One of The First Signs of Spring
One of the earliest signs of spring each year is the blooming of the Helleborus Orientalis, often first appearing while there is still snow on the ground. Because of their early bloom time, these Hellebores are also known as Lenten Roses, but don't let this name fool you. Helleborus are not related to the rose -they are actually members of the buttercup family. A close relative of Helleborus Niger, the Christmas Rose, Lenten Roses are more colorful and easier to grow. Plant breeders have recently worked to make Lenten Roses available in a wide range of separate and distinct colors - a far cry from the original pastel pink. This week we are featuring three of the most unusual and dramatic: (from left to right above) 'Blue Lady', 'Spotted Lady' and 'Red Lady'.

Three Easy-to-Grow, Long-Lived Shade Perennials
All three, 'Blue Lady', 'Spotted Lady' and 'Red Lady', bloom outdoors during Lent (or just before in the South) with beautiful, long-lasting clusters of flowers that will reach about two inches across. When they are not in bloom, their lush shiny evergreen foliage will remain as a year round ground cover. All are extremely deer-resistant.

The 'Blue Lady', 'Spotted Lady' and 'Red Lady' will all thrive in the shade and in many soil conditions, including clay if amended with compost. Expect your Helleborus to reach 20" tall. They are extremely hardy and long-lived - the perfect way to add color and year-round groundcover to the shady areas in your garden. When happy, Hellebores will cross pollinate and colonize into large sweeps and drifts in an assortment of colors.

Planting and Care

  • For best results plant in early spring.

  • Prefers shade.

  • Plant 30-36 inches apart in a moist, compost-rich, well-drained soil.

  • Cut back the old foliage lightly every spring.

  • Water regularly until established.

  • Hardy in zones 4-9.

  • Fertilize with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal in early spring.

  • Helleborus Orientalis Hybrid Collection includes three plants (one of each color) for $36.85 less 20%.

Our Garden-Worthy Certification means that your satisfaction is guaranteed.

Order Now - 'Helleborus Orientalis Hybrid Collection'
Helleborus Orientalis Hybrid Collection


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


Question: I live in [zone 6]. Last fall we planted lots of Pansies and this spring most of them are dead and the few that are alive are mostly dead with a little bit of green down near the soil. These Pansies were supposed to be the new winter hardy Pansies. They even came with a guarantee. What happened?

Answer: My experience has been that, even with improved breeding, winter Pansies don't seem to be much hardier than they used to be. In zone 6, in a mild winter or one with lots of snow cover, winter pansies will bloom on and off all winter and look great especially in the early spring. However, in a normal to harsh winter, winter Pansies are not reliable performers in zone 6. In zone 7 and 8 yes; in zone 6 you take your chances on the harshness of the winter.

You can improve your chances of success with winter Pansies by planting in a well-drained spot using compost and fertilizer (Chesapeake Blue and Bulb-Tone) and spraying the foliage regularly with Seamate to thicken the cell walls, thereby increasing winter hardiness.


Question: We plant Wave Petunias every year and last year they kept dying all summer and we had to keep replacing them until we couldn't get anymore. We have done fine with Wave Petunias in the past and I just don't understand what happened.

Answer:  Don't feel like the "Lone Ranger". I have heard of several cases like yours. I don't have a full answer, but this is what I know. The Wave Petunias seem to die from a root rot and in many places last summer it was wetter than usual. The problem seemed to occur only where Wave Petunias were planted year after year in the same bed. In similar circumstances, I know of no one who had trouble with Surfinia Petunias. I doubt it is worth while to try and treat the soil with a fungicide; but the soil should be amended so that it is well-drained. If you want Wave Petunias, I suggest you plant them in a bed that didn't have Wave Petunias in it last year. I don't encourage planting Wave Petunias in the same bed again this year. Instead, I suggest you try another flower or at the very least, another variety of Petunia until the situation clarifies.


Question #1: I am planning for some foundation plantings this year. And even without any plantings I have a rodent problem.

Question #2: This is "a new" garden and house (3rd year) in Abingdon, MD. Last summer I put in a nice flower bed in front of house and planted some perennials, bulbs and Pansies. During the fall (and continuously I see it now as well) I noted a lot of holes (about 0.5 inch in diameter or bigger) which really are "the tunnels" for some creatures. My Pansies have been eaten up (flowers and some leaves), bed looks like after bulls race. I am afraid about my bulbs. Some of them are showing up already, but not in the masses I planted. Is there any available poison that I could put inside their tunnels-homes and destroy them before they destroy my plants? Please help.

Answer: Undoubtedly you both have voles. Voles seem to be becoming more and more prevalent every year. Unlike moles that tend to hibernate in the winter and feed off grubs and earth worms, voles feast on plants, roots and bulbs all year long. Moles tend to leave raised tunnels in the lawn, whereas vole tunnels are not raised but evidence themselves as scattered round holes, usually in a flower or shrub bed, about one inch across, sometimes surrounded with a pile of soil removed from the tunnels. When the ground is snow-covered voles chew long, narrow furrows in the lawn as they feed on grass under the snow.

The best method I have found to eradicate voles is with a poison bait called Ramik. It takes about two weeks of baiting for the Ramik to be effective. Wear gloves and place a few Ramik nuggets next to a vole hole. Do not place the Ramik down the hole or you won't know if the voles are taking the bait. You will have to re-bait every day until the voles stop taking the bait. You need not bait around every hole, but if the holes are spaced more than five feet apart, you probably have more than one vole infestation and you need to set-up bait stations throughout the infested area.

Very Important: Cover each baited hole with an inverted large flower pot saucer held down with a couple of bricks or a large rock. Be sure the saucer covers both the bait and the hole. As always, carefully read and follow label directions.


Question: My lawn was devastated last fall with grubs. I applied the Dylox which seemed to solve the problem. Should I apply Dylox again this spring?

Answer: Beetle grubs have only one generation per year. If not killed, they chew the roots off the lawn in the spring as well as the fall. As you already killed the beetle grubs in the fall, you do not need to treat again in the spring. Dylox is applied in the spring, as soon as the grubs are evident, only on lawns that were not treated in the fall. Your next treatment will be with either Mach II or Merit in the summer, or if you don't get to it, Dylox in the fall.


Question:  I grew sweet potato vines cascading over my planters last summer. They did great, but these planters were mostly in the sun. Will sweet potato vines grow in shade my planters?

Answer: Sweet potato vine does well as long as it gets at least a couple hours of sun and the spot is bright the rest of the day. Sweet potato vine does not do well in dense shade.


Question:  I planted magic lily bulbs last year and I didn't get any flowers at all. What should I feed them and when?

Answer: Lycoris squamigera or Magic Lily (also known as Naked Ladies or Resurrection Lily) can be fertilized with Bulb-Tone three times a year; early spring, mid-summer and mid-autumn. Most magic lily bulbs are grown in Japan and then imported to Holland before they finally get shipped to the United States. When you purchase them, these bulbs are usually somewhat dried out and not flowering size bulbs. (To save on freight costs, the bulb companies ship small non-flowering size bulbs). However, these bulbs almost always live. As the bulbs gain strength and size in a year or so, you should have lots of Magic Lily flowers.


 

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