The Garden Club
February 24, 2005

 

   
Butterfly Bush 'White Ball'

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) 'White Ball'

Easy-to-grow butterfly bushes attract multitudes of butterflies all day long.

Not many plants are as prolific blooming, fun or versatile as the Buddleia or Butterfly Bush. Also called Summer Lilac, it is the one plant that can be found in almost every butterfly garden around the world as it is a virtual butterfly magnet, attracting more butterflies than just about any plant growing in temperate climates. The beautiful flower panicles that appear for several months emit a sweet honey fragrance that will be a favorite of every butterfly in your neighborhood. This week we are featuring 'White Ball', a new, super-compact, white-flowering Buddleia davidii variety that vastly increases the number of places you can grow a butterfly bush.

 

'White Ball' - A New Dwarf Butterfly Bush ideal for the smaller garden.

Buddleia 'White Ball' is a dwarf butterfly bush that can only be described as cute! The bright silver-grey foliage grows into a tight ball, only 3 feet tall and wide, half to one-third normal size. Spikes of white flowers surround 'White Ball' all summer - attracting butterflies for miles around. 'White Ball' is the longest, most prolific blooming butterfly plant we have seen. If you remove the faded blooms, 'White Ball' will blossom continuously from June right up to killing frost. With its silvery foliage and pure white fragrant blooms, this new hybrid is a particularly nice addition to the night-blooming moon garden. Usually relegated to the border background, now you can enjoy a handsome butterfly bush in the foreground of your garden.

 

Buddleias have a reputation for being easy to grow and 'White Ball' is no exception. Plant in a location where it will have full sun and well-drained soil. Once established, it is surprisingly drought tolerant. Cut back the branch tips in the spring for a fuller bush and improved blooms. It does not require the severe annual pruning needed by other butterfly bushes. As with all Buddleias, 'White Ball' is never eaten by deer.

 

Planting and Care

  • For best results plant in early spring.

  • Prefers full sun.

  • Plant 4 feet apart in well-drained soil.

  • Cut back lightly every spring.

  • Water regularly until established.

  • Hardy in zones 5-9.

  • Fertilize with Plant-Tone in early spring.

  • From 2-3 gallon pots, $28.85 per plant.

Order Now - Butterfly Bush 'White Ball'
Buddleia 'White Ball'


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


Question: Can Cannas be grown in a water garden? I love their big red flowers and I thought the large leaves would make a dramatic display and make a great accent in my fish pond. This question comes about because I saw a magazine picture of cannas seemingly growing under water. Was this picture just staged or was it for real?

Answer: Cannas can indeed be grown in containers placed just below the surface of a water garden. The variegated-leaved varieties make a particularly impressive and dramatic display. To be sure your cannas are well rooted before they are moved out of doors, I suggest you start your cannas indoors in pots in March. Once the cannas have emerged, cover the top of the pot with small stones. The cannas can be moved outdoors into the water garden about a week after the last frost date in your area.


Question: I heard you say on your radio show that you doubted that the Arborvitae Green Giant is as deer-resistant as the catalogs claim. I can tell you that here in southern New Jersey this winter the deer had a feast on my Green Giant. I need an evergreen that is somewhat narrow for screening. Is there anything at all?

Answer:  I know there is good reception for the Garden Club in some southern New Jersey locations - or are you listening on the internet?

Consider the named form of our native so-called eastern red cedar (which isn't a red cedar at all), Juniper virginiana Emerald Sentinel. I have never seen Emerald Sentinel touched by deer. However, there is risk. I know of one garden, in which the deer pressure is incredibly intense, where the deer browsed on another variety of the same Juniper species, Grey Owl Juniper.

Several reliable sources have told me that one variety of eastern arborvitae, Holmstrup, is never touched by deer - even in places where nearby Green Giant, western hybrid arborvitae, has been stripped clean of foliage. Curiously, all other forms of eastern arborvitae are deer favorites. Holmstrup, grows about 6 inches per year, eventually maturing to 10 feet. It is only 3 feet wide at maturity. We will be stocking Holmstrup arborvitae at the nursery this year.

Incidentally, I noticed that the same mail order nursery that has touted Green Giant as being deer-resistant is similarly touting hydrangeas. "Deer and rabbits leave them alone...". This has absolutely not been my experience. In one garden where the deer pressure is moderate, not nearly as intense as you have in southern New Jersey, every year the deer strip the hydrangeas to sticks.

I am also noticing this year that some rhododendrons are more resistant than others. Rhododendron carolinianum and its hybrids, such as PJM, seemed to be untouched even where deer pressure is moderate to heavy. I have noticed similar favorable results for Rhododendron maximum and its hybrids.


Question: Down here in North Carolina we always fertilize our asparagus in the early spring and late summer with Cottonseed Meal fertilizer. I know you recommend cottonseed meal for acid-loving plants. Is it okay for the asparagus?

Answer: Lots of gardeners in the south use cottonseed meal twice a year for feeding asparagus. They have done it for years with seemingly excellent results, so who am I to argue with success. Personally, I would use cottonseed meal for only one of the feedings and Garden-Tone for the other one.

Many southern gardeners also follow a practice that I wish was followed more widely. They mulch the asparagus in the fall with a couple inches of ground-up leaves or pine needles. Gardeners who follow this practice have a lot fewer weeds in the asparagus bed than those who don't.


Question: I have followed your instructions and I have already fertilized my lawn, shrubs and perennials and I put the kelp meal down. Can I seed my lawn this early?

Answer: You can seed the lawn as soon as the ground is workable. You do not have to wait for the last frost. Remember you cannot seed the lawn if you are going to apply crab grass preventor. In general, except for small touch-ups, the best time to seed a sunny lawn is in late summer or early autumn. The best time to seed a shady lawn is in early spring.


Question: I just finished pruning my grapes. Is there anything else I need to do to prevent grape rot? Every year the grapes turn black and shrivel up like raisins, I barely get any good grapes at all.

Answer: The pruning that you did on the grapes will do very little, if anything, to help with your black rot problem. I suggest you thoroughly spray the grapes with horticultural oil and lime sulphur. Choose a time when it is not forecasted for rain or frost for 24 hours. You also need to spray several times with a fruit tree spray. Start when the new shoots are 6 inches long and spray every 2 weeks until the grapes are fully developed. If you have a really moist season, sometimes it is necessary to increase the spray frequency to weekly.


 

 

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