The Garden Club
September 30, 2004

 

   

 

Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis paniculata)

Fast-growing Flowering Climber that Tolerates Shade
We love the look of clematis softening an arbor, trellis or fence – the delicate flowers and climbing vines can add so much to a garden. Unfortunately, clematis has a reputation for being finicky growers, but with proper care and, of course, choice of clematis, this need not be the case. This week we are featuring the easiest-to-care for of all clematis: Sweet Autumn—the most shade tolerant of all the clematis; in fact just about the most shade tolerant of all the flowering vines.

Clematis paniculata is very forgiving as to pruning. It will bloom prolifically on new wood, whether or not its pruned in the spring. Sweet Autumn clematis is immune to the worst of the clematis problems: “clematis wilt”, a debilitating fungus that causes all or part of the clematis to collapse and die. It’s hardy as an oak—all the way to zone 4.

Masses of Fragrant Flowers in Autumn
Sweet Autumn clematis is an assertive grower, reaching up to 30 feet long. The leathery, dark green leaves become literally covered with billowy clouds of small, white, deliciously scented flowers for weeks in autumn. They are followed by unusual silken, fluffy seed pods. The fragrance is reminiscent of a Hawthorne tree in full bloom. Sweet Autumn is the most shade tolerant of all clematis, giving you no limits as to where this can go in your garden. Just be sure it is planted in a place where it can climb and where you can enjoy its fragrant and delightful flowers.

Sweet Autumn is perfect grown on fences, over an arbor or trellis – anywhere you want a softer look. This dense and fast grower makes a great screen; no one will ever guess what is behind this beautiful vine. Clematis paniculata is semi-evergreen to evergreen in the south. It is perfect scrambling over spring blooming shrubs such as winter honeysuckle, or clambering up small trees. It can be used as a ground cover. No matter where your Sweet Autumn clematis is planted or what it is planted with, it is sure to be a highlight in your garden!

Planting and Care

  • For best results plant in early fall or spring.

  • Grow in sun or shade.

  • Water regularly until established.

  • Fertilize with Bulb-Tone.

  • Hardy in zones 4-9. (Requires sun to bloom in zones 4 and the colder portions of zone 5)

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Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis paniculata)


Garden Club Frequently Asked Questions
 


Question: I am seeing little white moths fly up from the lawn when I water the new sod. Is this sod webworm? If it is, how do I treat it? Thank you.

Answer: I believe that what you have is sod webworm. Usually sod webworm is most visible as small moths as you walk upon the lawn in the evening. Like grubs, sod webworm can devastate a lawn. Fortunately the treatment for both is the same: Dylox.


Question: I read in Martha Stewart Living a month or two ago about some new crape myrtles that are really red, not watermelon pink. She mentioned two. One was a shrub and one was a tree. I thought the name of the shrub was Cheyenne. When I went to my local garden centers and asked for it they didn’t know what I was talking about. I no longer have the magazine and I really want a true red crape myrtle. Can you help me?

Answer:  The National Arboretum has introduced two new true red crape myrtles. The tree form is “Arapaho” and, you are right, the bush type is “Cheyenne”. It is a large shrub and matures at about 8 feet. They are very new, so I am not surprised your local garden centers didn’t have them. But you are in luck; they are in stock at Carroll Gardens. You will not find them on our web site until next spring but if you call us at 1-800-638-6334 we will be glad to ship them to you.


Question:  Wild Bermuda grass has taken over my lawn, so naturally I was quite excited when someone called your radio show and said that there is a new chemical that will kill wild Bermuda grass without harming the lawn. Do you have any additional information on this product?

Answer: As promised when I went to the professional garden show last week, I asked the California manufacturer about this product. Most of what I found out is good news. The product is called Turflon Ester, but it is not a new product. It is a newly approved use for a product that has been around for a while. Turflon Ester is actually related to the broad-leaf weed killer we sell as Confront. Turflon Ester kills some grassy weeds in addition to broad-leaved weeds including those like Creeping Charlie, clover and violets that have been previously best controlled only with Confront. According to the manufacturer it can be used on tall fescues such as Black Beauty; but it can not be used on Zoysia grass. It will take about 3-4 applications of liquid Turflon Ester at 3-4 week intervals to totally control wild Bermuda grass. Because of the requirement for repeated applications, Turf Lawn Ester should be applied as soon as the Bermuda grass starts to grow in the late spring. With careful planning you should be able to wipe out the Bermuda grass and still allow for the required 3 week waiting period after the last application of Turflon Ester before re-seeding can begin. I have not used the product, but it does come from a reliable manufacturer and I feel quite confident that it works as they say. For lawns with large isolated patches of wild Bermuda grass, I still think 1 or 2 applications glysophate in the summer will be cheaper, less work and more effective. Where wild Bermuda grass is running through the lawn Turflon Ester seems to be a better alternative.


Question: A friend bought me a hardy cyclamen as a gift from your store. It is in full bloom now. Is it really hardy and how do I care for it?

Answer: The fall blooming cyclamen is winter hardy through zone 5. It is quite easy to grow if you plant it immediately in the right location. Be sure the top of the “bulb” is planted just below the surface of the soil. Hardy cyclamen requires dry shade. In moist soil it will rot over the summer when it is dormant. The most beautiful planting of hardy cyclamen I ever saw was amongst the roots of a giant Norway maple where nothing else would grow.


Question: I killed the grubs in my lawn with Dylox as you suggested. That other stuff that I tried didn’t work at all and with the Dylox I can actually see the dead grubs down in my lawn. Now what? Do I need to put Dylox down again next spring?

Answer: There won’t be another generation of grubs until next summer. You can either apply a grub preventer, such as Mach II or Merit, (which actually kills the small grubs as they hatch) in the late spring or early summer or you can put Dylox down again next fall if you see grubs. The problem with using the grub preventer is that in most years you don’t need it and it’s wasteful to apply it. The problem with delaying and then using Dylox is that most people don’t check for grubs until the grubs have shown themselves by killing large portions of the lawn. If you can remember to check for grubs at the end of July or early August, then Dylox is probably the best way to go.


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© 2004, Carroll Gardens, Inc.