Question: Our home, which we recently purchased, was built 20 years ago in the corner of a family farm field. The soil is rich, and the grass is thick, and we suspect that 90% of the lawn is crabgrass. What is the best way and what is the best time to kill the crabgrass, and replant the lawn? Should we overseed, or try to start from scratch? Can Black Beauty be used 20 miles north of Richmond, Virginia? The house sits in the middle of the 2 acres, and nearly all of the lawn is in full sun. Thank you.

Answer: You may want to send me a sample to confirm that what you have is crabgrass. If it has seed heads at this time, it almost surely is crabgrass. Crabgrass cannot be effectively controlled now, but the frost will kill it. Crabgrass can be prevented next year by applying Dimension when the forsythia blooms in the spring. In Richmond, a second application will probably be needed 90 days later. I would not start over; I would renovate the lawn before the end of September. Renovation is much less work and expense than starting over. I would thoroughly de-thatch the entire 2 acres, rake up the thatch, seed with Black Beauty Grass Seed at the rate of 7-8 lbs per 1,000 square feet, fertilize with Turf Trust at three quarters strength and rake the seed and Turf Trust into the loosened soil that the de-thatcher stirred up. A quick spray with Super Bio will aid quick establishment of the seed. For more detailed information, I suggest you look at our newsletter on fall lawn care or visit the Lawn Care section of our website.

Question: My lawn and at least one of my garden beds have been invaded by mugwort, which has to be the kudzu of the North in terms of fast invasive growth. Weed-Be-Gone didn't touch it. What can I use to kill this stuff? Thanks.

Answer: Mugwort is sometimes called wild chrysanthemum weed; it actually is a perennial Artemisia that spreads quickly by underground runners. It is almost impossible to dig out as it quickly re-grows into large patches from even a tiny piece of remaining root. Don't let it go to seed this fall; cut the tops off a couple of inches from the ground. Paint or carefully spray the remainder with glysophate. If the mugwort re-sprouts, respray. Over the next year watch vigilantly for new sprouts that may pop up here and there and spray them promptly. Be careful not to get the glysophate on surrounding plants that you desire to keep.

Sometimes it's best to dig up your valuable plants, remove all the soil with a hose carefully separate out all of the mugwort roots and replant the good plants temporarily in another area. Then you can overspray the entire weed infested area with glysophate.

Answer: It is a little early to cut back Peonies. I suggest the end of September or early October - the same time that is best for transplanting peonies.

Question: We are putting an addition on our house and the contractor will start late September. We have 6 Azalea bushes that will be destroyed if we do not move them. The problem is I want to move them to a place where they will not be harmed, however next summer I would like to move them to a permanent place around the addition or new fence. Will they survive this movement? Thank you.

Answer: Absolutely! Azaleas are easy to move and not deeply rooted. Be sure to place them out of the wind for this winter and move them into their permanent home next spring. As long as the holding spot is not too exposed and windy or too wet, you need not be concerned about the temporary home. The permanent home should have morning sun and afternoon shade with good drainage and protection from the worst of winter’s winds. Be sure to amend the soil with lots of Leaf Grow, some Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal. Plant the Azaleas at the same depth they grew before—no deeper, and keep them well-watered next year.

Is my desire to have a natural barrier just a wishful thought or is there a shrub you can recommend? Thank you.