The Garden Club
August 12, 2004

 

   

Anemone japonica Alba

An Unusual, Showy Fall Flower
Fall does not mean the end of color in the garden. There are a multitude of gorgeous plants that flower in the late summer and autumn to give your garden a boost of color. Common autumn plants are mums, dahlias and asters, but you options don’t end there. This week we are featuring another wonderful plant for the fall garden that is one of our favorites, the Anemone japonica Alba.

If you think Anemones are limited to the low-growing, spring blooms of the Anemone blanda, think again. Autumn blooming Anemones add height and beautiful color to the fall garden and have proved to be adaptable almost everywhere across the country. The Japanese Anemone is a plant with charm and sophistication that is one of the best flowers for the autumn.

Easy to Grow, Heirloom Perennial
An heirloom perennial, Anemone japonica Alba, also known as Honorine Jobert, in honor of the daughter of it’s French discoverer, was introduced from France in 1885 and quickly became a favorite in U.S. gardens. Honorine Jobert has received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. Single three inch, white-cosmos like flowers with bright yellow stamens top graceful, three to four foot stems that sway in the breeze from late August-October. The dark green, glossy foliage forms neat mounds, providing a striking contrast against the crisp, snow white flowers. Plant japonica Alba to fill in gaps left by earlier blooming perennials, in front of dark evergreens or tall shrubs. I believe japonica Alba is the best of all the fall blooming Chinese and Japanese anemones. It is one of the showiest and it is a little hardier than most Japanese anemones. This particular variety spreads slowly into a neat mass—less vigorously than many other Japanese anemones which quickly cover large areas.

The elegant appearance of japonica Alba is misleading; it is a very hardy plant that can thrive in almost any condition. It is rare that such an exquisite plant is so easily grown. It will take a year or two for japonica Alba to become fully established, giving you an even better show year after year.

Planting and Care

  • For best results, plant in early spring to early fall.

  • Prefers full sun, to partial shade in the north; partial shade to light shade in the south.

  • Plant 15 to 18 inches apart in moist well-drained soil.

  • Once established, tolerates both drought and moisture.

  • Water regularly until established.

  • Cut plants to the ground after first frost.

  • Mulch in colder areas.

  • Fertilize with Flower-Tone and Kelp Meal in late fall and early spring.

  • Hardy in zones 5-8.

  • From 2 quart pots.

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Anemone japonica Alba


Garden Club Frequently Asked Lawn Care Questions
 


Question: Alan, I heard your radio program for the first time last Saturday and have signed up for your free newsletters. In the meantime, I have a lot of questions which I hope you will be so kind as to answer. Thanks!

1. When is the proper time to trim tree branches? I want to trim the lower branches so that it is easier to walk under them.

2. We have had a lot of Japanese beetles this year. Is there anything we should do about the damage they have caused to our small trees? Is it best to trim the areas that they destroyed? Also, what can we do to prevent such infestations in the future?

3. I have a hydrangea that I bought at a local store at the end of the season two years ago. It has yet to flower. It is planted in an area that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Should I replace it or is there something else I can do to get it to flower? I have not trimmed it at all since it was planted for fear of cutting off any potential blooms.

Answer: I will answer your questions in order as they appear:

1. The best time to trim trees is at the end of January just before the sap starts to rise. However, if you are trimming less than 10% of the tree’s total foliage mass, you can do so now.

2. If the Japanese beetles have attacked just the leaves, as they almost always do, you need not do any pruning now. The stems should still be alive and new leaves will resprout next spring. In order to prevent the Japanese beetles next year, you need to kill the grubs that are in the lawn eating the roots. One way is to apply Merit now. Alternately there is a life-long organic Japanese Beetle control product called Milky Spore, but it is expensive and takes 2 years to reach full effectiveness. Even with total kill of all of the Japanese beetle grubs in your lawn, you will never keep all of the Japanese Beetles out of your yard; some will fly in from grubs that wintered over in neighbors’ lawns.

3. I don’t believe your hydrangea is ever going to bloom. I believe it was a left over hydrangea from either Easter or Mother’s Day that was a forced plant. The plants are winter hardy, but the flower buds are not hardy. I suggest removal of that hydrangea and replacing it with the new, ever blooming Hydrangea Endless Summer. Endless Summer is a introduction of Bailey Nursery in Minnesota, so you know it is cold hardy.


Question: I planted a white flowering butterfly bush several years ago. Starting last summer, I noticed it had several lavender spikes in addition to the white. This year, it has quite a few lavender spikes with the white. Sorry, I don't know what the variety is. I was wondering what would cause this to occur. Also, I cut it back every fall. Thank You.

Answer: There are 3 possibilities:

1. When your butterfly bush was propagated two or more young plants were put in the pot to give the appearance of 1 full plant. This is common nursery practice. By mistake, one of the plants could have been a lavender flowered plant, rather than the white one the nursery intended to include.

2. Buddleias do not seed true to color. They seed prolifically and the seedlings grow fast. It's possible a seedling from your butterfly bush grew at the base of the parent plant. If either 1 or 2 occurred, upon careful inspection, you will note that the lavender portion is on a separate plant,--right down to the root.

3. A third possibility is that your buddleia white mutated one branch of a different color. This happens occasionally among plants naturally--although no one knows exactly why. In some plants, hostas, roses, chrysanthemums, this happens frequently. Mutation is an extremely rare occurrence in butterfly bushes and I doubt that this is what happened. A separate plant is a much more likely occurrence.

Incidentally, butterfly bushes are best pruned to within a foot from the ground in early spring, not autumn.


Question: I just noticed I have bag worms all over my pine trees. What do you suggest?

Answer: This late in the season, picking the bags off is your best solution. Be sure to dispose of the bags in the trash and not drop them on the ground. Also check nearby shrubs. When there is a heavy infestation of bag worms they often do not confine themselves to evergreen trees. They sometimes attach themselves to deciduous shrubs and occasionally even perennials. I suggest you check your trees everyday. Bags may seem to appear overnight. Bag worms carry their bags with them and can actually move the bag from one branch to another. They spin thread-like lines from one branch to another and move along these lines. Look carefully at a heavily infested tree and you will see the lines.

This late in the season sprays against bag worms aren’t very effective. Next year watch the tree for the small worms which usually hatch out in June. When they are young, bag worms are much more susceptible to spraying. I have had the best luck spraying with Orthene. You can try an Orthene spray now, but I doubt you will have good success.


Question: Alan, you may remember me. I am the fellow that kept coming in last year all fall early on Sunday mornings and buying more Black Beauty grass seed. Then this spring I came back and got some more. I had a beautiful lawn in the spring and summer. It was fabulous; the best in the neighborhood. In most places it is really nice even now. But this summer I got some brown patches and for awhile they seemed to be spreading; although it doesn’t appear that they have gotten any worse during the last week or so. The brown patches are where the lawn was the best and the thickest. I checked and I have no grubs. I couldn’t find even one. What caused these brown patches and what can I do to keep them from spreading? Should I overseed just the brown spots or the whole lawn?

Answer: I suspect you sowed the Black Beauty seed too thickly. Overseeding should never be done at rates over 7 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. and newly tilled areas should never be seeded at a rate exceeding 12 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. I suspect the young grasses literally choked each other out, but it is possible a fungus spread through the areas where the grass was too thick.

It is also very possible that the brown areas are only dead at the top and new shoots may emerge from the base after you rake away the dead tops. Control of lawn funguses may be achieved by spraying the lawn weekly with liquid Seaweed solution and feeding immediately with a ½ strength application of Turf Trust, a fertilizer which suppresses lawn funguses. As a last resort you can use a chemical lawn fungicide, such as Daconil 2787, but your brown patches seem not to be of significant magnitude that you are going to have to resort to chemical fungicides. If your brown patches do not recover from the roots by September 1st, you can lightly overseed the affected areas in the fall. DO NOT overseed the whole lawn.


Question: Just have a question if you don’t mind. Variegated hydrangea hasn't bloomed since I bought it at local nursery in 1995. It grows profusely and takes root wherever it touches the ground. Huge plant, lots of variegated leaves, but no flowers. It gets partial sun. What am I doing wrong?

Enjoy your show very much, but only get to your nursery occasionally. Thanks in advance.

Answer: Variegated hydrangeas are notoriously poor bloomers. You are not doing anything wrong. If you desire flowers rather than variegated leaves, I suggest you plant the new Hydrangea Endless Summer. Also, I believe that in 2006 there will be a new variegated hydrangea that blooms well—the best of both worlds.

 


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