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The Garden Club |
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Lagerstroemia (Crape Myrtle) – 'Victor'
Crape Myrtles
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Premier Blooming Trees Crape Myrtles are native to Asia and were introduced to England and the U.S. during the 18th century. Since that time, extensive breeding of Crape Myrtles has resulted in a wide assortment of varieties from ground covers only two feet tall, shrubs of all heights through trees almost forty feet tall. Winter hardiness has also been improved, allowing gardeners farther north to enjoy Crape Myrtles' fabulous summer display. The dwarf varieties of Crape Myrtles are allowing gardeners with smaller yards to enjoy these beautiful plants. This week we are featuring one of these smaller and more versatile Crape Myrtles, 'Victor'.
'Victor' Not only does 'Victor' produce picturesque color, it does so with very little maintenance. 'Victor' does best when planted in an area with good air circulation, well-drained soil and in full sun. Once established, 'Victor' is drought resistant and does not require any maintenance beyond normal fertilizing and occasional watering. Pruning is not required, but can be used to create the desired shape and/or size of your 'Victor'. Planting and Care
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Garden Club Questions &
Answers Question: I've had a lilac for several years and I hardly ever get many blooms. It also keeps growing all of these shoots around it. When I trim it back, I figure I won't get many or any blooms the next year, but then by the next year, it's so big again that I want to trim it back again. I was about ready to just dig it up, but thought I'd see what you might say. How do I get rid of all the little shoots around it, and how can I possibly get more blooms out of it?I also have a holly tree. I've never gotten any berries on it. I realize that I need another one for it to pollinate with. My question is, can I try to take a cutting from the one I have so to have another one nearby? It is also getting very large-maybe about 15 ft high. Should I try to trim it, or just let it grow?Answer: A lilac that is growing in a place where it must be shortened regularly is a problem, as you indicate. Your best bet is to move it to a place where it can mature.The top pruning is encouraging all those suckers--not that you wouldn't have some without pruning. By topping, you are encouraging even more shoots. My recommended procedure for lilacs is to remove up to 20% of the oldest stems each year. Just cut them off at the ground level and let a reasonable number (let’s say twice the number of canes you remove) of suckers mature. If you have multitudes of suckers, you can use a spray called Sucker Stopper. If you move your lilac, be sure it is in full sun and well-drained soil. Fertilize in early spring and late fall with Bulb-Tone and Kelp Meal.As for the hollies, every holly plant has a specific sex. Only the females have berries--and only if they are pollinated by a male. The cutting-grown plant will be the same sex as the parent and thus cannot pollinate it. (A seedling can be either sex--51% are males; 49% are females). Usually a female will have a few berries from wind-borne pollen, even if no male is nearby. As yours has never had any berries, I suspect it is a male and will never bear fruit no matter what you do. If you want berries, you need to buy a female holly of the same species.Unless your holly is starting to outgrow the space or starting to get thin, there is no reason to prune it. Just let it grow. Light pruning (up to 20% of the leaves) can be done now. Severe pruning should wait until spring, just as the new leaves emerge.Question: I have been gardening for about 20 years, although I am not an expert, I am also not a novice. What is happening to my Zinnia's? Although the flower looks beautiful the plant itself always looks so terrible. The lower leaves are always black and curled and make the entire plant look awful. All other flowers in my gardening are flourishing except the Zinnia. Is this typical of them or is something wrong with mine? I have four garden areas, two sides in the front and two sides in the back...and no matter where I have them planted, they all look the same. Can you help? Thank you so much for your time and I love your website as it is so informative as well as your radio show.Answer: Zinnias are subject to various leaf fungi. Spray with Mancozeb or Daconil 2787, but it’s probably too late for much improvement this year. Next year, spray every other week starting in early July. Some of the newer varieties are somewhat resistant. Next year try State Fair or Blue Point. Both are large dahlia flowered zinnias and both are available in a full range of colors. State fair is a tetraploid. Like many tetraploid plants it has thicker leaves that resist disease. Make sure your site is sunny and well-drained. The soil needs to be very rich and evenly moist. Water only in the morning and try to avoid wetting the foliage. Be sure to clean up all the debris from this year’s crop thoroughly. Question: Have had one Weigela planted in a sunny location for a number of years. Never gets flowers and plant looks healthy--any ideas?Answer: I suspect deer are eating off the new growth with the flowers buds in the spring. (Or, possibly you are pruning at the wrong time). If it’s deer, you can either net the Weigela with deer netting in winter and spring. It is almost invisible. Alternatively you can use a deer repellent such as Deervik—a long-lasting paste applied to tags that you hang around the plant you are trying to protect. Deervik also repels rabbits.Question: I put Turf Trust down the first week of April. Should I re-apply now? Also, all my petunias are dying, in pots and in the ground. I have heard other people say the same. They are wave petunias. What could be the problem?Answer: I have had better luck with Surfina petunias than Wave petunias. All petunias in baskets usually need a good fertilizing and cut-back in mid-late July. I see lots of Wave petunias in the ground that look good. If yours are dying, it may be that the soil is too heavy and wet. If you believe that to be the case, I would not replant with petunias in that spot next year. Amending and treating the soil is just too much work. Choose another more moisture tolerant bedding plant. I can’t diagnose a fungus or insect problem without more information. Spraying with Orthonex will help rectify several common petunia problems. You should feed your lawn now with either Turf Trust at half strength, Espoma 100% Organic Lawn Food at half strength or the new Jonathan green Organic Lawn fertilizer at full strength.Question: I went to Chicago last week to help my elderly mother with her yard work. I got stuck clearing a bunch of weeds from behind her garage and along her back fence. Since she can't really do much yard work herself, she counts on me to do it when I visit her twice a year, usually early summer then around Labor Day.These weeds were humongous, some as tall as 4 to 5 feet. Some of the weeds almost looked like small elm leaves. Most of the weeds had thick stems, some woody, coming from the ground. I actually had to take a small saw on some of them to cut them at the base. I put two different types of weed killer on them. In addition, some of them emitted some sort of poison, since I got poison something and had to go on Prednisone for 10 days. The over-the-counter medications just didn't cure my arms and legs. I was talking to her neighbor who did cut down the weeds for her last year and put weed killer on them but to no avail. My question is: What can I use on these weeds to finally eradicate them? Cutting them out is impossible since most of them are jutting out of old asphalt, for others, the bases are just too thick for me to attempt to dig out. Is there any hope to kill these things? I'll be going back to her house over Labor Day weekend. Answer: Most weed killers work thorough the leaves. If you cut the weeds down and then spray the weed killers, they are not very effective. (Exception: on woody shrubs and trees, you can drill holes in the cut off stumps and pour concentrated glysophate into the hole). By Labor Day, the weeds will have resprouted and should be susceptible to weed killer. Fall applied weed killer is particularly effective, because at that time of year, plants are moving nutrients (along with the weed killer) to their roots. If you have no intention of ever planting in the area, you can use Triox. If you do intend to replant the area, an application of glysophate immediately preceded by an application of a 2, 4 D-based brush killer should be very effective. Question: Our hanging baskets always look great for a few weeks after I buy them. By the middle of July, they always look awful. We have only part sun, but that is not the whole problem. I simply don’t have the time to give the daily care that hanging baskets need. Is there any type of low maintenance hanging basket that I can buy that will look nice into fall? It doesn’t have to be spectacular, just alive and neat and tidy. Answer: I suggest you try wire baskets planted simply with variegated vinca vine. By fall the vinca should be about 8 feet long and touch the ground. The new varieties of vinca have much better variegated foliage contrast than the old ones. Also, in most climates, you can carry the vinca basket over from year to year without much work. The long trailing vine will give a dramatic tropical look to your home. It will only require watering a couple times a week and will never require deadheading. If you need height in the center, put a “spike” plant in the center of each basket. Question: I read about your Alliums in last week’s newsletter. I have a spot around a flag pole that is very dry and I can’t easily get water to it. I am looking for something short that rabbits won’t eat and which will require very little watering. I was thinking of putting the green Allium senescens around the flag pole and then a circle of Allium senescens Glaucum on the outside. Will this work?A nswer: I have never tried the combination you have suggested, but it should be very nice. Allium senescens Glaucum blooms after Allium senescens, so you should have over a month of color. Once the Alliums get established, they shouldn’t require any supplemental watering except in cases of extreme drought. However, you will have to water about once a week, when there is no rain, while the Alliums are establishing themselves. I have never known either deer or rabbits to eat these Alliums. In fact, the deer and rabbit resistant lists are just about the same. Alliums are on just about every deer-resistant list that I have seen.Question: On your radio show last week you said that Confront shouldn’t be applied in the summer to control clover because it isn’t actively growing at this time of the year. What about “creeping Charlie”? Creeping Charlie seems to be growing like crazy in my lawn just now. Can I apply Confront now or should I wait until fall or spring? I really want to kill the creeping Charlie now and reseed in the fall. Is this possible?Answer: You are right, creeping Charlie (ground ivy) is still growing in many places this summer, whereas clover is not in active growth. I still believe creeping Charlie is most susceptible to Confront when it first greens up in the spring. But, Confront will do an adequate job if killing creeping Charlie in the summer in places where it is still actively growing.
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