The Garden Club
June 24, 2004

 

   
Passiflora Incarnata 'Maypop'

Passiflora Incarnata 'Maypop'

Hardy Passion Flower - Unique and Striking Vine
Native to the southeastern United States, the Passiflora Incarnata or 'Maypop' is a hard to find, unique and striking vine - the only winter hardy passion flower vine.

Discovered in the early 1600's, passion-flowers were given their name because early explorers interpreted its unusual structure of the flowers to be emblematic of the crucifixion of Christ. The five petals and five septals of the flower symbolize the ten disciples (minus Judas and Peter). The outer fringe represents the halo over Christ's head or the crown of thorns. The five stamens and the knob-like stigmas of the pistil respectively signify the number of wounds that Christ received, and the nails. This is not the only creative interpretation of the 'Maypop' other cultures have other takes on the blooms' distinctive structure; in Japan it is called the 'Clock Plant'. There are over 400 species in the passiflora genus, but the 'Maypop' is the only one that is native to the United States.

'Maypop' - Exotic and Easy to Grow
Given its common name because of the way it "pops" out of the ground every May, the 'Maypop' is a very distinctive and fast growing vine that blooms from July through September. The exotic, two and a half inch flowers have white petals with a showy central fringed crown of lavender and purple thread like filaments. There is a pleasant lemon-musk fragrance. Edible, egg-shaped fleshy fruits, with sweet pulp, mature to yellow in autumn. The vine is covered in lush, dark green foliage that is serrated, lobed and five to six inches long. Tendrils are used to pull the vine up to its height of eight to twelve feet, letting it grow up fences, trellises, and tree trunks or scramble over shrubs or up slopes.

'Maypop' is reliably hardy in zone 7 through zone 9. It may live over the winter throughout zone 6 and into the warmer parts of zone 5 as long as the roots are protected with a deep mulch, or the vine grows in a protected spot.

'Maypop' is deciduous; it will die down to the ground every fall, but will emerge again in the spring and will become the perfect addition to your garden. 'Maypops' require very little maintenance beyond normal watering and fertilizing. Be sure to use a low nitrogen fertilizer, as too much nitrogen will cause the 'Maypop' to grow vigorously, but not flower. 'Maypops' spread modestly by underground runners and should be planted where they are free to spread.

Planting and Care

  • Plant in spring or early summer.

  • Prefers moist well-drained soil in full sun to light shade.

  • Plant 6 to 8 feet apart.

  • Pay particular attention to water regularly until established.

  • Mulch well in areas where severe cold is a threat.

  • Three to four inches of a loose mulch, such as pine needles, is recommended.

  • Fertilize with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as Flower-Tone.

  • Cut back to the ground each spring.

  • From 1 quart pots.

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 Passiflora Incarnata 'Maypop'
 


Garden Club Questions & Answers
 


Question: I would like my pachysandra to grow lower and cover a shady slope more quickly. Will pinching back the tips encourage this? If so, how far back do I pinch and is there a preferred time of the year to do this?

Answer: Pinching will encourage the development of runners with side shoots so the pachysandra will fill in quicker and more densely. I doubt you are going to want to pinch annually forever to keep the ground cover more compact. In addition, a thorough annual pinching my actually harm the pachysandra. If this is your plan, it would be better to change the pachysandra variety to a more compact form now - or change to Vinca minor (periwinkle). Pachysandra can also be encouraged to grow more densely if you feed now with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal, as well as spray with Super Bio. Repeat the application in late fall (exclude the Super Bio) and early spring (all 3 products).

Late June-Early July is the ideal time to pinch the pachysandra. Remove all of this year’s growth - the lighter colored leaves.


Question: My son and daughter-in-law have planted a Wisteria close to their house. I believe that they thought it would climb more like a vine. However, it is getting very thick and is wrapping around the down spouts, etc. They have placed a trellis near it, now, and want to train the Wisteria to the trellis. How severely can it be cut back to begin the new training? Some of the branches need to be cut back so that they can retrieve it from around the gutters and downspouts. Can it be done now?
 

Answer: You can cut the Wisteria back as far as necessary, now, in late June. The only possible harm is loss of next year's flowering - and even this not certain. Branches on which you remove only part of this year's growth should bloom.


Question: We are wondering if we can cut back our Rhododendron. It had only one blossom this year. Previously it had quite a few. If we can how much can we take off? Thanks for your help.

Answer: Many people noticed lighter than normal bloom on their Rhododendrons this year. It's not unusual for Rhododendrons to rest for a year after a particularly heavy flowering the previous year.

Cutting back your Rhododendron this year will not necessarily increase blooming next year. In fact, if you cut it back after July 4th, you may have no blooms on the cut branches. If you need to cut back your Rhododendron because it has grown too large, you can cut it back as far as you need to - even going so far as removing all of the leaves and leaving only bare stems. However, pruning back by only 25% is usually considered a much safer practice for the amateur home gardener.


Question: I have a hydrangea that has yet to bloom and there are no flower clusters showing. It did the same thing last year and I thought it was because I had cut it after blooming the year before. So I didn't cut anything back last year. Now this year again, no flowers or signs of any yet. I have an Endless Summer Hydrangea I purchased from you in an identical location (maybe 15 - 20 feet away) and it is blooming gloriously! Help!!
 

Answer: I suspect your non-blooming hydrangea is not bud hardy in a cold winter. Your hydrangea is one of those that makes its buds the previous year. This may have originally been a forced Mother's Day or Easter hydrangea. Many of these are not intended for outdoor planting in zones 7 and below. It's not worth the effort of trying to protect it every winter and such protection may not be successful anyway. I recommend you just tear it out and plant a new hardy variety.


Question: I usually dust my vegetable garden with Sevin to control insects. When I don't, my leaves get eaten to shreds and my vegetable garden is a total flop. But I think I should do something for funguses also. I find using Sevin dust very easy. Is there a similar fungicide dust that is safe to use on vegetables?

Answer: You are in luck, there is a combination dust that includes both 2% Sevin (Carbaryl) and a gentle fungicide, Copper sulphate. It is called Copper Dragon.


Question: My lawn is loaded with weeds and crabgrass. We have only lived here for a few months and its obvious the previous owner did nothing to this yard. I am willing to fertilize, but I don’t want to apply any chemical weed killers. Short of digging out all of the weeds or digging up the lawn and starting over, is there anything I can do to get a decent looking lawn? I am not looking for perfection, our lawn is too big. The grass, what there is of it, seems to be halfway decent between the weeds. What do you suggest?

Answer: If you fertilize 3 or 4 times a year with a good quality slow-release fertilizer, such as Turf Trust that makes the grass grow outwards rather than upwards, your grass will eventually crowd out about 80% of the weeds. Make sure not to cut your grass too short. It's going to take several years and it may require some spot seeding of the barest patches. You won't have a great lawn, but you will have a good one.



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