Carroll Gardens

 

The Garden Club
June 17, 2004

 

   
Chrysanthemum 'Montrose Selection'

Chrysanthemum 'Montrose Selection'

Delightful and Reliable

No other plant brings to mind summertime and happiness more than the daisy. Both charming and cute, the daisy may remind us of our childhood - picking wild daisies and tucking them behind our ear or bringing a handful home to mom. This week Carroll Gardens is featuring the most reliable and permanent of the daisies, the Chrysanthemum (Shasta Daisy) 'Montrose Selection'.

The story of the Shasta daisy is the story of Luther Burbank. Reared on a farm in Massachusetts, Luther Burbank had a great fondness for the wild biannual oxeye daisies that grew at his family home in Massachusetts. Having moved to Santa Rosa, California, the young plant-breeder was inspired to develop these wildflowers for use as garden flowers, and envisioned an ideal daisy: it would have very large pure white flowers, long-blooming period, and be good both as a cut flower and garden plant. In order to achieve his goals he used four different species of daisies. In 1901, after 17 years and 34 generations of breeding, Burbank unveiled the Shasta daisy. Finally he got the beautiful large white daisy that he was hoping for. He named it for the lovely glistening Mount Shasta in Northern California.

Unfortunately, because the four species included bi-annuals, short lived perennials and non-hardy plants, on the east coast and in the mid-west, most Shasta daisies are usually not permanent garden perennials. They are often short lived and can disappear in a few years. Over the past hundred years many other breeders have built upon Luther Burbank's work and have introduced literally hundreds of additional varieties. One variety has proved to be outstandingly permanent and true to the vision that Luther Burbank had of the perfect daisy---Chrysanthemum 'Montrose Selection'. Its growing habit differs from all the other Shasta daisies. It develops a lot of vigorous and hardy side shoots from the basil rosette; thus insuring its survival and natural proliferation.

We believe this variety was originally developed in Experiment, GA by the Riegel Plant Farm, developers of several outstanding Liriope and hardy Hibiscus as well as many Shasta daisies. This selection was originally introduced under the name "Stone Mountain", but as with so many other superior plants, it gets "re-discovered" and re-introduced every decade or so by a different keen-eyed nurseryman under a different name. Our stock comes from Nancy Goodwin of the Montrose Nursery (now out of business) in North Carolina, discoverer of so many wonderful plants and the last person to re-introduce it.

'Montrose Selection' - Captivating and Hardy

'Montrose Selection' features medium-sized blooms, with yellow centers surrounded by a double row of snow-white round-edged petals. Blooms are held on unusually strong 30-inch stems that refuse to flop, even after hard rain. The captivating, showy white flowers bloom from July to September, creating a living bouquet wherever they are planted. Faded blooms should be pinched back near the top of the stem to encourage new blooms throughout the summer, or cut back to the base to encourage fall rebloom.

Because it was bred in Georgia, 'Montrose Selection' is accustomed to heat and humidity making it one of the best Shasta's to grow in the South and many other climates across the country (zones 5-8). It is a vigorous, hardy grower that will do best in well-drained soil and full sun to part shade. 'Montrose Selection' is most effective in groups of three and is a lovely addition to any perennial border. Plant with Stokes Aster, early-blooming Daylilies, Coreopsis, perennial Salvia, Russian Sage or Catmint for eye-catching contrast. 'Montrose Selection' should be divided every three years, making it a true pass-along plant that all of your friends and neighbors will love to receive.

Planting and Care

'Montrose Selection' is easy enough for the beginner gardener, but thought by many experienced gardeners to be a staple in any garden. Some simple care will bring you weeks and weeks of beautiful blooms year after year.

  • For best results plant in early spring to early fall

  • Requires well-drained soil in full sun to light shade

  • Plant 12 inches apart in groups of three for the best effect

  • Water regularly until established

  • Fertilize with Flower-Tone in early spring

  • Divide every third spring

  • Hardy in zones 5-8

  • You receive three plants from 1 quart pots

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 Chrysanthemum 'Montrose Selection'


Garden Club Questions & Answers
 


Question: Can you suggest some fast growing trees, max 25 ft, that would be suitable for planting under power lines (mostly full sun)? I would prefer no berries or flowers that drop. Thank you.

Answer: With the exception of Japanese Maples (which certainly are not fast growers), all desirable small deciduous trees have flowers and they often have small fruits also. But they don't necessarily drop and leave a mess.

My favorite fast growing small tree is the Prairie Fire Crabapple. The pink flowers just dry up and blow away in the wind. The tiny red apples are about the size of the eraser on the end of a pencil. They hang on all winter until they are softened by freezing and are then eaten by birds. I have never seen any kind of litter under a Prairie Fire Crabapple. Prairie Fire Crabapple matures at 15-20 feet tall and has maroonish leaves.

Another possibility is the compact form of the Japanese tree lilac, Summer Snow. It flowers, but has no fruits. There is no litter problem with the flowers, but it is slower growing than the crabapple. A third possibility is the Arnolds Promise Witch Hazel. It has small yellow blooms in early spring with no litter problem. It makes a 20 foot tall multi-stemmed, vase-shaped, shrub-like mass. It is also a medium grower.

Another bushy tree/shrub is the hybrid smoke tree (Cotinus Grace). It has large flower clusters in summer with no litter. Smoke trees (sometimes called smoke bushes) grow very fast, but they require some pruning to keep them neat.

You may want to consider a mixture of the above, perhaps with a few evergreens like Emerald Sentinel Juniper mixed in. If you want to choose a single plant, I feel the Prairie Fire, or other similar crabapple, is the tree of choice.


Question: Help. I have a rose bush that is being eaten alive by something. I have put Ortho on it, but to no avail. The leaves have been eaten down to the middle vine of the leaf. The flowers get ready to bloom but then never do--they are brown around the edges. What can I do?

Answer:
The leaves are probably being eaten by the rose slug. The flowers are probably infested with thrips. Orthene is the recommended insecticide. (Ortho makes several products with similar names) Neither of these pests are easy to kill. You will need several applications 7-10 days apart.


Question: Is there anything I can do to keep this rabbit from eating my flowers to look like sticks? It has eaten the leaves and flower buds on a lily, my delphinium and the cosmos. It's a corner flower bed and I really don't want to put up a fence. Any advice would be welcomed. Thanks.

Answer: Spray your plants with Ropel. It works really well on rabbits, but a re-spray may be needed after a couple of rains.


Question: I believe that I read in your newsletter that one should not mulch clematis with wood chips. Why is that? If shade from shrubs is not available, should extra compost be applied as a mulch? Thanks.

Answer: You are partially correct. Wood mulch laying around clematis stems is believed to contribute to the worst clematis ailment there is---Clematis Wilt. This fungus causes the entire above ground portion of the clematis to suddenly wilt, dry up and die; although the clematis will often resprout from the base and sometimes even grow back to its former glory.

Compost should never be used as mulch. You can use shredded wood mulch or pine needles if you keep them away from the clematis stems with a collar. For this purpose I have used a plastic flower pot, with the bottom cut out, buried by one-third to one-half. On very large clematis, sometimes I have found it necessary to slit the pot down the side and put it around the clematis, rather than slide it over the top. If you encounter a lot of roots when trying to bury the pot around an established clematis, it may be best to let the collar sit on top of the ground, held in place with a bent coat hanger or earth staples, rather than damaging a lot of roots while burying the collar. Incidentally, besides shrubs, many perennials can also be used to shade clematis roots.


Question: I am a customer, and I ordered a lot of stuff from you this year. I made the mistake, however, of ordering my knockout roses from another nursery, which shall be nameless. They arrived bareroot, dormant and waxed and packed in plastic. I live in Vermont, so I wasn't surprised not to get them until May 16. By May 18 I had them in the ground. They looked good, but the wax made it impossible to find buds, so I just cut them back to places where I could feel some swelling of the canes. It is now June 14, and they still haven't even begun to leaf out. They seem to be alive but exhibit absolutely no growth. It has been cool except for about two days with temperatures in the eighties. We have had plenty of rain. Today I finally dug one plant up, and there didn't seem to be any root growth either. The wax isn't really coming off very much, and I still can't find buds. I cut them back again today, once more estimating where the buds might be. I also fertilized today with Miracle-Gro 10-52-10, which I would normally never use but which was recommended in the planting manual that came with the roses. It said the high phosphorus level would promote root growth. I called the nursery from which I purchased the plants and was told to e-mail my questions. Two e-mails spaced about four days apart have resulted in no response. I can return these roses, but I am hoping you will give me some advice on how to get them to leaf out. They are not dead!

Answer: We have not sold waxed roses for years; we discontinued dipping roses in wax about 40 years ago. I didn't realize anyone still waxed their roses. In Maryland, the wax usually melts away on a hot day, but I'm not sure this would be true in Vermont. But, if the wax is sufficiently thick, you should be able to pick the wax away with your finger.

Roses that are reluctant to leaf out can be encouraged if the procedure below is followed:

Lay a piece of cotton cloth over the rose canes with one end of the cloth in a bucket of water which sits next to the rose. An old T-shirt, a piece of bed sheet (double thickness) or burlap will work fine. The cloth should not touch the ground all the way around the rose: a small air space is needed for ventilation. The bucket should be kept full at all times. The purpose of this procedure is to make a greenhouse (steam chamber) effect: this will keep the canes from drying out before the roots begin to grow. A similar process commonly referred to as 'sweating' is often used in nurseries. Once very small leaves appear on the rose canes, the cloth can be removed, preferably in the evening before a cloudy day.

Discontinue the Miracle-Gro and use SeaMate instead. I would not cut back the roses any more. I am afraid you are cutting away live buds. If the canes are still green, I believe the roses will sprout out eventually, but you may have to wait several additional weeks. Good Luck.


Question: Is it okay to cut daffodil leaves now? Mine are still green after 2 and one-half to 3 months.

Answer:  "To achieve maximum bloom, do not cut daffodil leaves until they turn yellow". That's what all the literature says. However, I have found you will get almost as many blooms next year (maybe 10-20% less) on vigorous naturalizing varieties, if you cut the foliage as little as 6 weeks (no less) after the bloom has completely passed.


Question: My yard is really shady and I would love to have some hydrangeas. I have planted some oakleaf hydrangeas, but they only have a few blooms where they get the most sun. Is there any hydrangea that will grow in full shade?

Answer:  Have you tried Hydrangea aborescens Annabelle? My experience has been that it is more shade tolerant than oakleaf hydrangeas and will bloom profusely in all but the darkest of situations.


Question: The cicadas really damaged my trees badly. My big oaks have lots of brown tips and my lawn is littered with short branches of dead foliage. My dogwood trees haven't dropped many stems, but lots of the branch tips are dead and dying. I thought the cicadas weren't supposed to attack dogwoods. What should I do?

Answer:  In most areas the cicadas are gone for 17 years. I also was surprised at how heavily they had damaged the dogwoods. However, I have not seen one tree that I do not expect to recover. On all trees, for appearance sake, I suggest you clip off as many of the dead and dying branch tips as you can reach. Then feed all of the damaged trees with Cottonseed Meal and Kelp Meal, to encourage a strong late summer re-growth of new branch tips. On the larger trees where you can't reach the dead twigs, I expect you will be gathering them up every time we have a strong wind, until early next year.


Question: A year or so ago you suggested I plant Stella de Oro daylilies to cover the daffodil foliage. It has worked out really well. It used to take me hours and hours to tie all of the daffodil foliage in knots. Can you suggest a few other perennials that I can plant amongst my daffodils to camouflage the foliage. My yard is mostly sunny.

Answer: Three perennials that immediately come to mind are:



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