Question:  I have had a tall bearded iris in my garden for about four years and it looks like it is becoming congested. It needs to be divided, but I am not sure of how to go about doing this or when it should be done.

Answer:  You are right that the iris needs to be divided. The best time to do this is in July or August. The first thing you need to do it carefully dig it up, a garden fork works best as it will do less damage to the roots. Use a hose to rinse off the soil from the roots and the rhizomes. Then, using a sharp knife, cut through the rhizomes (the thickened stem that grows horizontally underground, producing roots along its lower surface), ensuring that each piece has healthy roots and a fan of leaves. Cut the leaves in half before you plant them. You can discard any rhizomes that that look unhealthy. The final step is replanting the irises, you will have the best results if they are planted in well-drained, fertile soil that is in full sun. Fertilize with Bulb-Tone. Place the rhizome on a cone shaped mound of soil and spread the roots around it. Cover the roots with soil making sure the rhizome is just below the surface.

Question:  While recently cleaning out my garage, I stumbled upon some old packets of seeds, my guess is they are about five years old. Are they still good? Is there anything I can do to improve the chances for germination?

Answer:  Unfortunately, almost nothing can be done now to increase the chances for germination. However, if the seeds were stored properly, that is in a cool, dry place, a majority may still be good. There is any easy germination test that you can do. Take a few seeds from each packet and wrap them in wet paper towels and then put them in a plastic bag. Make sure to label each one so you know what is in each. Place them somewhere nice and warm, but not above 75 degrees. Wait a week and then see if there are sprouts. If so, they are good! If not, wait another week and if they still have not sprouted then they probably never will. If the seeds are perennials and they are really valuable and they are not sprouting; add a few drops of water to the package and then put them in the freezer for a week and then repeat the process to see if they are viable.

In the future, be sure to store unused seeds in an airtight container such as a mason jar in a cool, dark place; like the refrigerator.

Question:  I want to create a large azalea garden in my partially shaded back yard and I am having a difficult time blending the colors. I also want to add some flowering trees that will bloom at the same time.

Answer:  In my experience, all shades of evergreen azaleas blend together beautifully as long as you exclude white. White is supposed to be the great color harmonizer but for some reason or another it doesn’t work with azaleas. You can blend lavenders, purples, orange-reds and pinks as long as there is no white. It may sound strange that you can put orange-red next to pastel lavender and they will blend, but believe me I have tried it and it works. If you desire flowering trees to bloom at that the same time as azaleas, choose only white flowering trees such as dogwood and the albino form of the red bud.

Question:  I have several blue and pink Hydrangeas in my garden that bloomed for me last year. The new growth is coming at the bottom of the plants but the “old” wood seems to have nothing on it right now. Do I cut the old wood back or just leave it alone?

Answer:  Almost all macrophylla hydrangeas suffered die back to the ground this winter. Go ahead and cut the old wood back. Unless you have Hydrangea 'Endless Summer', your hydrangea almost surely will not bloom this year. The difference is that 'Endless Summer' blooms on both old and new growth, thus even if Hydrangea 'Endless Summer' should be killed to the ground you will still have a full season of hydrangea blooms. They may start a week or so later then usual but the blooms will continue with the new growth right up until frost.

Stock-up for Spring -- Sale Ends Soon!