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The Garden Club |
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Rutgers
Dogwood Tree An Excellent Flowering Specimen with Multi-Season Interest Dogwood trees provide flowers, fruit and bark that are exceptionally attractive. The Rutgers blooms begin as a deep cup and have a greenish tinge, but then they flatten out to provide velvety pure white floral bracts that are broad, round-edged and almost over-lapping--as in the best forms of Cornus Florida. Expect prodigious quantities of blooms just as the foliage emerges. In the Fall, the color turns to a bright, beautiful red. This is a newer, more vigorous Dogwood resulting from crosses between ‘Kousa’ and Flowering Dogwoods. Its disease resistance is good. It can be limbed-up and grown as a 20 x 15 foot tree with traditional upright form. Planting & Care Spring is the best time to plant your new Dogwood Tree. It is most effective naturalized with Rhododendrons, Azaleas and perennials. Choose a location where you can enjoy the tree’s beauty and is in full sun to partial shade. Prefers well drained acid soil rich in organic matter. Dig a hole about a foot larger around the root ball. Mix in about 25% compost and Kelp Meal with the existing soil to use for fill dirt. Fill dirt should be compacted around the root ball just enough to remove air pockets. A new tree will require infrequent but deep watering. Only when the soil is dry down to six or more inches is it time to water. Once established, dogwood trees become quite drought-tolerant. When time to fertilize, use Cottonseed Meal or Holly-Tone. Cold hardy in zones 5-8. Reserve Now For Spring Planting We begin shipping this tree in early spring as soon as we determine it is safe to plant in your area. First-quality trees from 2-gallon pots. |
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Garden Club Questions & Answers |
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Question: I read your simplified lawn care program with great interest. I have the same issues as the individual who inquired about his bad lawn. Part of this issue is the poor clay subsoil that my developer left us to work with. (This was fertile farmland prior to development, but the good soil must have been hauled away) I am looking forward to seeing what results I'll have with your method. My question is on weed prevention; we have severe dandelion and other weed outcrops that I usually attack with pre-emergent weed and feed. Following your program, what weed preventative would you recommend? Answer: I doubt you used a pre-emergent weed control. Most “weed and feed” type products consist of a post-emergent weed control product sprayed on a granular fertilizer. In general, I recommend a liquid lawn weed killer, used with a spreader sticker, sprayed directly on the lawn twice, 5 weeks apart. Tiger makes a good, inexpensive liquid that works very well on easy-to-control weeds like dandelions. The first application works best if it is applied just as the weeds start to green up in the spring. Choose a wind-free day when no rain is in the forecast for the next 24 hours. Watch out for overspray onto ornamental plants. My experience has been that liquids are cheaper, more controllable and work more effectively than granules. Also, because of the need to space out the second fertilizer application from the previous fertilizer application with crabgrass control, the weed killer in a “weed and feed” type product tends to be applied too late for maximum effectiveness. In the event you have difficult-to-control weeds like creeping Charlie and violets, Confront is the best product to use. But it is only available to the homeowner as a granular and it is more expensive. I suggest you make 2 applications of the liquid and hold off until next year, or longer for the Confront. Inspect your lawn this fall to determine if Confront will be necessary next spring. Incidentally, if you have poor clay soil and a relatively new lawn I have found that spraying with Super-Bio, concurrently with lawn fertilization, works wonders. Question: I want to plant something around our above ground pool. What would be good? Would I need something that the roots would not go under the pool or would they not hurt it? Thanks a lot. Answer: Most people want something colorful around their pool. There is no good colorful, flowering evergreen for the situation, but even a deciduous plant, which loses its leaves in the winter, gives about 50% visual blockage with its naked stems. Some plants I have used successfully around an above ground pool are dwarf Korean lilacs (blooms spring and fall), Hydrangea Endless Summer (prefers some protection from the hottest afternoon sun, but will tolerate full sun) and Hydrangea Annabelle (for partial shade). Most other possibilities grow too tall without pruning. Many plants that bloom in the summer, when you are using your pool, attract bees and should be avoided. One that I have not tried but which I believe would work is the new very dwarf, nicely branched, burning bush variety “Little Moses”. It is super colorful in the fall. If you must have an evergreen, consider the shiny, deep green leaved Viburnum Conoy, but it is rated hardy only through zone 6. I don’t know whether you are in the zone 5 or zone 6 part of West Virginia, but Viburnum Conoy does so well in zone 6, I suspect it will be winter hardy even in the milder parts of zone 5, although it may lose some of its leaves. This viburnum may require annual pruning; otherwise it could grow slightly taller than the pool. Viburnum Conoy has white flowers in April and, with proper pollination, red berries in the fall that will attract the birds. All of the above selections have relatively restrained root systems that should not harm the pool. For most situations, I still recommend the dwarf Korean Lilac as truly the best choice of all. Question: I have a large Bay Tree (about 3-4ft) which is potted and each year I bring inside. In the past I never watered it much during the winter months. I have two other plants about 2-3-ft which seem to be doing just fine - with the same water pattern. This year I placed it in a semi-heated area in a southern window. It was doing fine until about a week ago, when I noticed the leaves were very dry and curling. I have soaked it. The branches and twigs do not seem too brittle and still have flexibility. It is there anything else I can do to bring it back "alive". Thanks for you help!!! Answer: Try a drench of Seamate--one tablespoon of the liquid concentrate to the gallon of water. Use Seamate at the same rate every time you water. It's good for all of your indoor plants. Seamate contains a gentle fertilizer and two bio-stimulators (humates and seaweed or kelp extract) to help the damaged roots regenerate. Sweet Bay trees prefer to be kept on the dry side, I suspect yours dried out too much. Sweet bay laurel recovers slowly, so be patient. It sounds like yours dried out so severely that I suspect it will not send out new growth at the tips, but only part way up the stems. This autumn, cutting back the stem tips that have not regenerated will probably be in order. Question: Where do you find Moss and how do you plant it? I have so many trees and no dirt or grass, just roots showing and I read where moss might be the answer. Any comments? Thanks and I love your radio show and the newsletters. Answer: You will find moss growing in the woods in a moist, shady place. With permission, just dig some up. Put a cupful (roots with clinging soil and top growth) in an old electric food blender with a cup of buttermilk. Fill to the top with water and blend to a slurry. Pour it on the ground and spread it around. Feed monthly with buttermilk run through the blender, mixed half and half with water. If the conditions are right, the moss will quickly establish itself. But I’m afraid your conditions are not right. I suspect your site is too dry. Moss likes a moist place and the tree roots seem to be pretty bad. I suggest you consider one of the following low to medium height perennials--all of which will tolerate dry shade. Perennial Geranium macrorrhizum, Variegated Japanese Solomon Seal, Symphytum grandiflorum, Heuchera villosa (a native form of Coral Bells), Hosta lancifolia or Bishops hat (epimedium). Question: I am interested in ordering some winterberry hollies and have a question about the pollination. We have a 3 acre wooded lot that is covered with native hollies- some quite old. Would they be sufficient for pollination of the winterberries or do I have to plant a specific type? Answer: American holly blooms at the wrong time to get good berry-set on most varieties of Winterberry holly. Because you have a large stand of native holly (Ilex Opaca), I suspect you will get at least some cross pollination from sporadic out-of-season blooms--just how much depends upon the season. For best pollination, you need the appropriate male Ilex verticillata for the female Ilex verticillata you have selected. Otherwise you can try the American holly, see how full the berry clusters are and buy a male winterberry later if necessary. Alternately, plant the evergreen bush holly, Ilex meserveae Blue Prince. It has a particularly long blooming period and will pollinate almost any holly. Question: I have a dappled shady area in the corner of my yard that I would like a hedge/privacy screen (to hide a neighbor's house), preferably 10-15 ft. high. I have considered the oak leaf hydrangea, but am looking for other suggestions. Please let me know if you have any. I am in zone 5. Also, please give me some suggestions of what to mix with my hedge (to put in the foreground). Thank you!!! Answer: I don't think oak leaf Hydrangea will fill the bill. It only grows about 6 feet tall and because of the sparseness of the branching will give very little screening when it is dormant in winter. I suggest you consider Viburnum pragense, the non-dwarf form of the burning bush (Euonymus alatus) or witch hazel (Hamamelis). I am hesitant to suggest a foreground plant until you have selected the screen. Once you have made your selection, please contact me again. How long is the area and how wide? Are you thinking of a perennial or a shrub?
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