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Question
I have approximately 60 hosta all in one area, and the deer just destroyed
20 of the large blue leaf hosta that I have - they took them to the
ground. However, what’s strange is that the 40 other hosta, which are
variegated hosta, they never even touched. Can you shed some light on
this?
Answer
Yes, I am convinced that hosta vary in how palatable they are to deer (and
slugs). I noticed the same thing at my dad’s place, where we used to have
a deer problem. They would eat one variety and leave the next variety. In
yards where there is extreme deer pressure they will eat them all, but
they do have their preferences. I believe the preferences have nothing to
do with variegation or lack thereof. I suspect it has more to do
with leaf thickness.
Deer will probably eventually get to your variegated hosta. There are
several things you can do to help deter this. One option is to spray them
with Bobbex or Tree Guard. Bobbex is particularly effective as a deer
repellent for hosta. Another option is to net them with fine netting.
Fertilizing with Milorganite may help. Repellex systemic tablets are
another option.
Question
I’ve ordered the new Endless Summer Hydrangea because of its reblooming
characteristics. Will it bloom blue or pink?
Answer
The color of Hydrangea Endless Summer is soil dependent. If you want blue
flowers; add a couple of handfuls of aluminum sulphate at planting. If you
want pink; use lime. You will have to probably refresh the treatment with
a single handful of the desired product each summer.
Question
I know about placing the vole pellets under a saucer by the vole hole but
why can’t you simply toss it in the hole? What else could cause a hole? We
have a number of holes next to the house. Thank you for all your help.
Answer
I suggest you place the bait next to the holes rather than in the holes to
be sure that you are dealing with an active hole and to monitor bait
consumption so you know when it’s time to re-bait. If you drop the
bait down the hole you have no idea if the voles have taken it.
Question
I have a 7-year-old large dwarf pampas grass plant. It has usually been
quite dramatic and healthy. Last summer it was lush and full of plumes.
Typically, I have not cut it back in the spring, just cleaned out the old
dead plumes and pulled some of the dead looking grass by hand. This year,
I cut it back to about 1 foot high with my weed whacker. It looks
terrible. It has new grass growth on only about 1/4 of the base. The rest
just looks like an empty bowl where the old grass and plumes were the year
before. I’m wondering if the deep freeze and cutback were too much for it.
Any advice?
Answer
You're partially right. Pampas grass is borderline hardy in most areas of
Maryland. The cutback had nothing to do with it. The tough winter has
partially killed many pampas grass. In addition, the drought and
over-crowding may have weakened your pampas grass going into the winter.
Pampas grass should be divided into quarters about every 3 years in the
spring before it comes up. I suggest you divide the pampas grass
immediately and feed with SeaMate™ and
Flower-tone®. Plant
back only the vigorous portions. Cut them back by half and keep them
moist.
Question
I appreciate your suggestions on perennials for a red, white and blue
garden. But I am a novice gardener and not quite ready to step up to
perennials just yet. Is it too late in the season to plant bedding plants
and still have a display this year? I was going to plant red salvia and
white petunias, but then I could not find any flower that was the deep
blue as in the flag. Is there a bedding plant that is deep blue?
Answer
You need not be afraid of perennials; many of them are just as easy to
grow as bedding plants and in some cases even easier. It is not too late
to plant bedding plants for a nice mid-late summer display. I suggest
Salvia Blue Bedder or one of the similar varieties for your blue flower.
If you are in partial shade you could use the blue lobelia, but then your
red salvia would not perform as well because of the shade. |
